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Safecracker 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson
Season: Spring or Fall
Page Views: 441
Submitted By: slim on Sep 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Safecracker 

This little route offers a lot of great climbing in 25 feet. The route is bolted but is a perfect roof crack and can be done on gear also. My 3 star rating is probably pretty generous, given the length, but it is definitely one of the better routes up there.

Start up with some mildly chossy stemming to reach the start of the roof crack. Place protection (black, blue Aliens), or lean out and clip a bolt. Get ready to start cranking and launch immediately into cruxy climbing. For me, clipping the next protection (bolt or 000 BD C3) was the crux as it was fairly strenuous for my meager guns. Stick with it though as the climbing gets easier as it transitions into a better-sized crack. For the grand finale, thrust yourself up into the steep OW/chimney which is sharp as hell but user friendly.

Location 

As soon as you reach Ridge 2, there will be a sizeable roof about 20 feet off the ground. Safecracker splits this roof near the north end by a pine tree. You can't miss it.

Protection 

4 bolts or microcams/small stoppers with a couple hand-sized pieces. I used a set of Aliens, a silver BD C3, and a #3 Camalot. If you have the right gear, the crack will take it almost anywhere.


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By ANGUS WIESSNER
From: Denver Colorad
Feb 8, 2017

This route is bad ass I love it! Can't believe it is not more popular.

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