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Safe Harbor South

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a. Blood Sugar Magic Sector 
b. Electric Co. Sector 
c. Tenuous Odyssey Sector 
d. Machismo Sector 
e. Super Slab Sector 
f. Autumn Arch Sector 
g. The Righteous and the Wicked Sector 
h. Numero Uno Sector 
i. Train in Vain Sector 
j. Hydroman Sector 

Safe Harbor South Rock Climbing 


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Location: 39.90803, -76.3642 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 71,172
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Nov 18, 2011  with updates from JSH
Forecast:
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79° | 62°
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88° | 70°
Friday

90° | 72°
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92° | 72°
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90° | 69°
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89° | 68°
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Dusk on the walk back to the car.

Description 

Over eighty bolted single pitch sport routes along an abandoned railroad bed, a bit south of Safe Harbor Dam. Many of these have updated stainless steel hardware since their reopening in 2011, while some include 1980's or earlier vintage bolts and cold shuts.

Approaching from south to north, the climbing sectors reached (in order) are: Blood Sugar Magic, Electric Co., Tenuous Odyssey, Machismo, Super Slab, Autumn Arch, the Righteous and the Wicked, Numero Uno, Train in Vain, and Hydroman.

Eric Hörst's Safe Harbor Climbing website has a few mini-guide to climbing the south areas. The area divisions used here are his.

Getting There 

From Lancaster, Pennsylvania, take New Danville Pike south to Conestoga (5 miles from Central Park, Lancaster). Turn right on Main Street (3 1/2 miles). When Main Street ends in a T-intersection, turn left of River Road, and you will drive through Safe Harbor Park.

If your party has more than one vehicle, leave them at the park, and carpool from there.

After turning left (south) on River Road at Safe Harbor Park, continue on River Road as it winds back uphill. Turn right on Green Hill Road. At the first four-way intersection, turn left on Brenner Hollow, and then take another immediate right back onto Green Hill. In another mile or so, just before a flower preserve sign, Green Hill turns downhill onto a gravel road and to a tunnel. Park just before or after the tunnel (remember that everyone has to U-turn and drive out past you). There's enough room for many vehicles to park here. The trail is on the uphill (east) side of the tunnel, and it brings you up to the main rail-trail bed. Head right (north) on the rail trail towards the cliffs (around 1/2 mile).

Check for recent "No parking" signs, in case of recent changes.

Warning: If you end up on the lower rail trail, with rails and trains running on it, you're off-route.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.8 miles from here

117 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',26],['2 Stars',69],['1 Star',21],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',7],['5.8',9],['5.9',28],['5.10',33],['5.11',23],['5.12',9],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Safe Harbor South

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Safe Harbor South:
Le Eaglet   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   j. Hydroman Sector
Pro Bono   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   e. Super Slab Sector
Two Pines   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 64'   b. Electric Co. Sector
Public Service   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 74'   b. Electric Co. Sector
Lynn's Chin   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   d. Machismo Sector
Under Fire   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   b. Electric Co. Sector
Eminant Domain   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 80'   f. Autumn Arch Sector
Slab Master   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   e. Super Slab Sector
Adopted Son   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   j. Hydroman Sector
Mental As Anything   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   j. Hydroman Sector
Safe Harbor Direct   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   b. Electric Co. Sector
Tenuous Odyssey   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   c. Tenuous Odyssey Sector
Locomotion   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   f. Autumn Arch Sector
Demon In My Semen   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   i. Train in Vain Sector
Electric Co.   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   b. Electric Co. Sector
Autumn Arch   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   f. Autumn Arch Sector
Super Slab   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   e. Super Slab Sector
Hydroman   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   j. Hydroman Sector
Machismo   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 65'   d. Machismo Sector
Wonderama   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   f. Autumn Arch Sector
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Safe Harbor South

Featured Route For Safe Harbor South
Rock Climbing Photo: Blood Sugar Magic

Blood Sugar Magic 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Pennsylvania : South Central PA : ... : a. Blood Sugar Magic Sector
One of the best at Safe Harbor. Granted it is short, but there is no fluff on this route.Start at the base of the crack and diagonal up and left using underclings, laybacks and the occassional jam to a pair of cold shuts. Use caution getting to the second bolt. From bolt 1 to 2 the climbing is mid to hard 5.11 and you could hit the ground if you blow it....[more]   Browse More Classics in Pennsylvania

Photos of Safe Harbor South Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the tunnel at the far side parking
the tunnel at the far side parking
Rock Climbing Photo: Area overview, Blood Sugar Magic sector not shown,...
BETA PHOTO: Area overview, Blood Sugar Magic sector not shown,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset over the Susquehanna, from Safe Harbor Sout...
Sunset over the Susquehanna, from Safe Harbor Sout...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Dam at Safe Harbor
The Dam at Safe Harbor
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking upstream at Safe Harbor Dam from the south...
Looking upstream at Safe Harbor Dam from the south...
Rock Climbing Photo: Safe Harbor South's walls parallel old electric li...
BETA PHOTO: Safe Harbor South's walls parallel old electric li...

Comments on Safe Harbor South Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Marcus
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 28, 2015
The following bit of the "Getting There" section is pretty confusing: "On the uphill side of the tunnel off Green Hill Road, follow a side trail uphill next to high tension power lines. It will connect you to the old rail trail (with no rails left) where it crosses over the top of the tunnel."

Here's some clearer directions: A few feet from the northeastern side of the tunnel on Green Hill is the start of an unmarked climber's trail that leads from Green Hill Road to the Enola Low Grade Trail (the rails-to-trails trail). Walk through the woods for 5-10 minutes, mostly uphill, until you emerge from the woods onto the Enola trail, which is 50+ feet wide, completely covered in gravel, and flanked by a line of power lines. Turn right (north) and walk until you see bolts on the wall to your right (about 1/8 to 1/4 of a mile).

Rock Climbing Photo: Start of climber's trail from Green Hill Road to E...
Start of climber's trail from Green Hill Road to Enola Low Grade Trail
By Adam Marcus
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 28, 2015
The powerline poles that run along the trail have plates with numbers. The tower closest to the trail to Green Hill Road is T 14. The tower closest to the Port-o-John is T 23.
Rock Climbing Photo: Plate on one of the powerline poles showing number...
Plate on one of the powerline poles showing number (T 23)
By Ben Harris
Jun 9, 2016
there is literally no shade. so wouldn't recommend on a hot sunny summer day

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