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Saddle Tower Buttress
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Saddle Tower Buttress T 

Saddle Tower Buttress 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 420', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c C1 [details]
FA: Tom Thomas, Dan Mathews March 1986
Page Views: 282
Submitted By: herb crimp on Nov 18, 2014

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Sleeping in after jugging back to the rim during l...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 Begin up the varnished left facing corner system via fingers, then big hands and fists. Climb into the chimney and set a belay in a hand size splitter. This belay is nicely sheltered from the loose rock at the top of the next pitch. 95' 5.10

P2 The chimney is reported in Bjornstad's National Park book to go for two pitches, but is only 20' long. Climb the chimney, then turn a roof to exit on a big hands splitter. Continue for over 100' up a steep varnished hand crack. Changing between big and thin hands, it is mostly perfect hands up to a wild roof. Work your way around the roof and up onto a sloping ledge covered with stacked, loose rock. Move left along the ledge and negotiate a second roof for more exciting and awkward climbing into a brief slot. A .5 protects leaving the slot. Work up a crumbly finger crack to a shoulder. Traverse out right to the "Saddle" casting about looking for a good belay. 190' - 220' 5.11

P3 It is difficult to determine where the 1st accent went here. We crossed the saddle and climbed a crack on the north side to a large ledge 20' below the summit. A sandy bulging .75 splitter guards the start. Climb through this (C1) into a pod below a large wedged block. Tip toe around the block and through some looseness to a nicely varnished corner system which is followed to a ledge. 85' C1 5.10 (could go free around sandy 11+?)

P4 "It is hoped future parties will not place bolts but climb the summit block in the same high style as the first ascent party". High style indeed! A thinly patinated face is climbed for 20' to the summit. Offset nuts and tcu's protect the opening boulder problem, which for us, was a shoulder stand. Committing climbing past a pod leads to the summit. This pitch is demanding and hard to protect. Locate a single drilled angle on the summit (the only fixed gear on the entire route!) or belay from a large boulder on the summit. 20' C1 5.10 (free at 11?)

Descent:
Rap down to the saddle off of a single drilled angle which can be backed up for the first person by slinging one of the large boulders on the summit. 100'

From the saddle, scramble down into the gully on the south side of the tower. Hike/downclimb through boulders in the gully to a final drop. Pick one of the many boulders on the lip to sling for an anchor. Make a 120' rap to the ground. One 70 barely makes it.

Location 

The route is located on the west end of the "Tower". It follows a 300' left facing corner system up to a saddle separating the final 100' tower from the main cliff band. The route receives sun starting in the late morning and throughout the remainder of the day.

Protection 

Nuts, a few tcu's, 2x tips to #.75 camalot, 3x #1, 4-6x #2, 2x #3, 1-2x #4 Lots of runners for P2, extra webbing for the descent. One 70 meter rope will get you down.


Photos of Saddle Tower Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Herb Crimp about to whip onto medium quality cams ...
Herb Crimp about to whip onto medium quality cams ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Scotty Palmer leading the P3 north side splitter.
Scotty Palmer leading the P3 north side splitter.
Rock Climbing Photo: The 100' summit tower from the saddle.  Looking do...
The 100' summit tower from the saddle. Looking do...
Rock Climbing Photo: Scotty Palmer leading P1 which ends in the chimney...
Scotty Palmer leading P1 which ends in the chimney...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Saddle Tower Buttress from the approach on...
BETA PHOTO: View of Saddle Tower Buttress from the approach on...

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