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Saddle Mountain

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Screams from the Balcony S 

Saddle Mountain Rock Climbing 

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Location: 51.39332, -116.20836 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tom Gnyra on Sep 3, 2016

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A big outcrop of Bog quartzite is located just a few miles away from the Back of the Lake area in Banff National Park. Obvious from the road and pretty obvious approach from the lake louise parking lot.

Getting There 

Begin by parking at the upper lot if possible (head towards lake louise, do not turn at moraine lake and continue straight through).

Walk to the "climber's right" side of the parking lot as per entering it. There should be obvious trails towards lake louise and others going left. Take the left side trail (make sure the sign reads Mt. Fairview and Saddle Mountain).

Once you reach the col between saddle and fairview, immediately bushwack over a dead log (2016) towards the huge scree field. You are going to follow this around the mountain as the climbs are all on the south/east side of the mountain, totally invisible from the parking lot.

Total time: about 1.5-2h

Climbing Season

For the Banff National Park area.

Weather station 2.8 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Saddle Mountain
Rock Climbing Photo: The prow

Screams from the Balcony 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  North America : Canada : ... : Saddle Mountain
The proud prow that can be seen from the highway. Really, a stunning feature to climb on and a really incredible line. This plumb was not picked until 2001 and it seems like it may have been due to no one wanting to bolt the last part or even venture up there for fear of difficulty.P1 "The Grass Pitch" : Find a big grass bowl at the lowest point of where the trail dips. Basically just move up through very rotten rock, mud, grass, and other garbage. Belay at a small ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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