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Saddam Hussein 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Glenn Ritter
Season: Any
Page Views: 3,155
Submitted By: chummer on Jan 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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Description 

Despite the chossy ledge midway and silly name I feel this route is a classic. Above the 1/3 height ledge the rock changes to some of the most clean and textured stone I've ever seen. The position near the top is fantastic. AND the climb is nearly always dry, even in a downpour like most of the routes here.

Location 

On the far right edge of the Rasputin ledge but just before the massively overhung "Bee Wall." Start in left facing corner. Climb to ledge and belay or runner prudently and keep pullin'.

Protection 

16/18 (anchors) draws. Cold Shuts for anchors. If you're top roping make sure to use your own draws to save the wear on the shuts. 70 meter rope gets you down just fine.


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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 15, 2010
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

This route is excellent and demands endurance and excellent route finding/rock reading skills. There are a couple of spots where the next bolt looks dangerously far away, but fear not, there is a bolt to be had that is closer, you just can't see it yet.

NOTE: THIS ROUTE REQUIRES 15 DRAWS + ANCHORS AND A 70M ROPE!!!!
By brian k sohn
From: knoxville, tn
Aug 18, 2012

Note, this route is not 12 pitches, as indicated. Also, if my 60m rope is cut a little long (I haven't measured it) the route is 110 ft at the most. If you lower with a 60m, you can climb down the poison-ivy covered tree to get down the last few feet.
By Danny Hupp
From: Nashville, TN
Mar 31, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Absolutely classic line. First 30 feet are semi-technical corner climbing until you reach a big chossy ledge. From there it's an 80 foot jug haul with really good horizontal hand-jam rests. There are only a few hard-ish moves on the route, but the pump will catch up to you at the end if your endurance is lacking.
By Le Bob
From: Golden, CO
Apr 15, 2017

There are some quicklinks halfway if you need to lower with a 60m. I had a ~65m rope and barely got down in one lower had to down climb the first 10ft off the end of the rope!
By Zabadoo
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Aug 25, 2017
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I was thankful that there were a couple of quick links on the bolt directly before the chossy ledge. It should be noted though that that bolt is spinning. Now I can say that I bailed of a spinner! The first 30 feet are quite excellent and the rest looked great. Not being ready for the TN heat squashed my hopes of the send.

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