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Sachem  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: FRA: Tom Zimmerman, Jonathan Garlough & Joshua Corbett
Page Views: 557
Submitted By: tommyguns on Apr 30, 2013

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P1 Of Sachem Select

Description 

Sachem- A paramount chief amoung the Algonquian tribes.
The name was chosen as a historical reference to the Indian Sachems that were know by settles around the area. Powerful Sachem’s included Chocorua, Pagus and Passaconaway, of which the nearby mountains are named after.

This route climbs the right side of the main slab through the obvious headwalls.

P1: start up the featured slab passing a couple small birch trees. Continue up the slab to the left arching corner. Get great gear and pull onto the headwall following a trail of pockets. Pull the crux rock over move onto a lower angle slab and continue up the a headwall with a horizontal crack. Traverse right and belay from the tree. 150' 5.7 R

P2: Pull through the headwall at the crack in front of the belay tree onto the low angle slab (crux). Traverse left passing an often wet crack to the far left of the second headwall. Pull into a left facing corner (second crux) and then trend up and right to a tree ledge with a boulder and belay. 5.9. 130'

P3: Continue up the brown water groove to the top of the cliff and trees above. 5.4 PG-13. 110'
Walk back and right to the hiking trail.

-additional description by Jonathan Garlough

Protection 

Light to medium rack with tri cams. BD Cam's up #2 (For headwall crack)

Location 

On the far right side of the cliff with obvious headwalls...


Photos of Sachem Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sachem October 20th 2013
Sachem October 20th 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: All documented routes including Sachem.  Adapted f...
BETA PHOTO: All documented routes including Sachem. Adapted f...

Comments on Sachem Add Comment
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By tommyguns
Apr 30, 2013

Please don't take my protection advice literally. I soloed this route and only have moderate trad experience. Please use care rapping down P1, cause this pitch is quite tall. Options would include bailing to climbers left or right and raping from trees.
By chinos
Apr 19, 2014

Sachem 5.9 R

This route climbs the right side of the main slab through the obvious headwalls.

P1: start up the featured slab passing a couple small birch trees. Continue up the slab to the left arching corner. Get great gear and pull onto the headwall following a trail of pockets. Pull the crux rock over move onto a lower angle slab and continue up the a headwall with a horizontal crack. Traverse right and belay from the tree. 150' 5.7 R

P2: Pull through the headwall at the crack in front of the belay tree onto the low angle slab (crux). Traverse left passing an often wet crack to the far left of the second headwall. Pull into a left facing corner (second crux) and then trend up and right to a tree ledge with a boulder and belay. 5.9. 130'

P3: Continue up the brown water groove to the top of the cliff and trees above. 5.4 PG-13. 110'
Walk back and right to the hiking trail.

FRA: Tom Zimmerman, Jonathan Garlough & Joshua Corbett
By Ron Birk
From: Boston, MA
Aug 21, 2014

chinos, are you describing the same route or another? I am asking as the submitter of this route rated it 5.5 and you 5.9
By chinos
Sep 1, 2014

This is the same route. tom did a wandering first pitch at 5.5. We went back and straightened the line out, and added the second and third pitches.