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Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face
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Life by the Numbers T 
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers  T 
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Saber T 
Saber Rattler  T 
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Sea of Green  T 
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Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 
South (Left) Descent Gully T 
Steve's Twilight T 
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route)  T 
When the Dog Bites  T 

Saber 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 240'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Unknown (AMC climbers in early days?)
Page Views: 182
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Nov 7, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: START of Saber, Wind-Blown Pine ends P1

Description 

START: At the left end of a flat area on the trail about 30-40 ft left of the bottom of the North (right) Descent Gully, or about 25 ft right of Sea of Green (aka The Green Mile). There’s a “bottoming groove” that slants rightward as it ascends (Photo) and a clean face to its right with a bolt (start of “Unk Slab#1). The "wind blown pine tree" is your objective for the end of P1.

In my opinion, the opening moves are the crux.

P1 - Climb the groove [Var 1] (crux 5.6 PG-13/R) to where it becomes a crack and then up to a 4” horizontal ledge about 30 ft up. From the horizontal, move left to the base of a hollow flake/shallow-corner [Var 2, Scepter, now highly recommended], do battle with the “small but mighty” pine tree, then up the flake/shallow-corner, then left and up to the big, “wind blown” pine tree. 120 ft 5.6 PG-13/R

Variation #1 Alternately, climb the face 6-8 ft right of the groove (5.5 - 5.6 PG-13/R) for 8-10 ft and move left and up, back into the groove/crack).

P2 - Up the face above the wind-blown pine tree [Var 2] (watch the accumulation of pine needles!) into the arching flake. [Once considered virtually unprotectable, today try #3 or #4 Camalot(s).] WEBSTER: “Layback & face climb the entire length of the flake (“nice 5.6”), passing a small maple tree, then up into an alcove below an overlap. Move right to the end of a four foot wall, [NOTE: at this point a new 2-bolt anchor is a few feet below you.] climb over the wall (avoid he dirty corner to the right) and finish up slabs. 100-120 ft 5.5 - 5.6

Variation 2 - After climbing up a few feet, it is possible to step left (old 1/4" bolt) and intercept The Green Mile.

Protection 

Normal Rack, #3 Camalot for upper crack


Photos of Saber Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: S Matz on Saber, just above the opening moves (fla...
BETA PHOTO: S Matz on Saber, just above the opening moves (fla...

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