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Saber Ridge
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Saber Ridge traverse, south to north T 

Saber Ridge traverse, south to north 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 20 pitches, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Scott Thelen (2008)
Page Views: 4,860
Submitted By: fossana on Jul 16, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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really fun section here

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Being a ridge traverse there are many ways to go on some sections. Choose you own adventure. I found the most sustained part to be surmounting the first headwall.

In relation to something like Matthes, it's longer, more sustained and more exposed.

Location 

Start
Start as far down the lower angled slabs as you wish.

Descent
Scramble off to the west until you can drop down onto the talus field that puts you west of the Prism. There is also a trail descent down Elizabeth Pass, but it's longer. For this you'll have to head NE down the slabs and cross-country to the Elizabeth Pass trail.

Protection 

no fixed gear or anchors


Photos of Saber Ridge traverse, south to north Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: looking back to the south
looking back to the south
Rock Climbing Photo: The Prism and Saber ridge from the approach.
The Prism and Saber ridge from the approach.
Rock Climbing Photo: view of Mt Stewart and Tamarack Lake
view of Mt Stewart and Tamarack Lake
Rock Climbing Photo: knife-edged fun
knife-edged fun
Rock Climbing Photo: nearing the summit
nearing the summit
Rock Climbing Photo: view to the south with the Prism on the right
view to the south with the Prism on the right
Rock Climbing Photo: final push
final push
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the second bump/headwall.  Looks harder th...
BETA PHOTO: View of the second bump/headwall. Looks harder th...
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down the route
looking down the route
Rock Climbing Photo: view to the east
view to the east
Rock Climbing Photo: near the end of the ridge
near the end of the ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down the low-angled slab start
looking down the low-angled slab start
Rock Climbing Photo: Saber Ridge from Tamarack Lake
Saber Ridge from Tamarack Lake
Rock Climbing Photo: steep traversing the way I went for the first head...
steep traversing the way I went for the first head...
Rock Climbing Photo: route start and end
BETA PHOTO: route start and end
Rock Climbing Photo: Glacier Ridge and Deadman Canyon
Glacier Ridge and Deadman Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt Stewart again
Mt Stewart again
Rock Climbing Photo: many options to surmount the first headwall
many options to surmount the first headwall
Rock Climbing Photo: looking back at the Prism
looking back at the Prism
Rock Climbing Photo: the options for the second "bump"
the options for the second "bump"
Rock Climbing Photo: view east past one of the gendarmes
view east past one of the gendarmes
Rock Climbing Photo: one of the easier bits
one of the easier bits

Comments on Saber Ridge traverse, south to north Add Comment
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By Chad N in Central CA
From: Central California
Jul 16, 2014

This is fun ridge traverse climbing. Agree w/ fossana about the headwall being sustained and it's probably the crux. Several options here and it felt like I chose the easiest; felt like 5.7+ face climbing on crusty flakes and cracks. After the headwall is gained, climbing through the slot is fun as there is a perfect hand crack. Then the ridge fun begins. Some class 3 and 4 mixed in with mid-5th and anything up to 5.10 if you wish. I stuck with the all the easiest options and 5.7 is a good grade for this climb. The exposure had me laughing it was so good! Wore climbing shoes for the headwall then switched to approach shoes for the ridge. The descent is not trivial. A great link-up would be to climb the Prizm, then traverse its ridge, rap and climb Saber. Saber is probably a better solo for those comfortable as carrying in gear and pitching up would be long and brutal, but still a great adventure for those looking for that.