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$00pr kr33m S 
Boys with Power Toys S 
Bulges T 
Diagonal T 
Family Man S 
Film Noir S 
Hippopotamus S 
Junior Niblits 
Just Another Boy's Climb T 
k00kEEz and krEEm S 
Keyhole, The T 
Kr33m in the $33m TR 
Left 'N Up T 
m1n1-kr33m TR 
Nasty Boys S 
Northeast Arete T 
Pen 15 S 
Prime the Pump S 
Return of Dow, The T 
s00kr33m S 
Shalohsh S 
Sick For Sleeping S 
Sump Pump S 
Sweet NiBLitz S 
Syzygy T 
Trad kr33m T 
Undertow S 
Whipped Cream S 
Whipping Post S 


YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano, Paul Glover/ original anchors and two directionals installed by Kurt Smith and Chris Beh
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, summer, autumn
Page Views: 8,712
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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Ted Lanzano on his FA.

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  • Description 

    The route climbs the rainbow-colored, bulging wall right of Boys with Power Toys, on the northwest flank of the Slab, Fern Canyon. Kurt Smith and Chris Beh installed the original anchors and two directional bolts circa 20 years ago, before the ban, but were unable to get back in time to finish the climb. It's been a long wait, but well worth the effort! Props to Kurt and Chris for their eye for a line, and thank you, Chris, for letting us finish it.

    Climb two bolts up a thin vertical face on crimps to the base of the bulging section. From here, two nice-and-close clips take you up into the business -- five bolts total of very sustained climbing to get up under the big roof. Lots of slopers, lots of crimpers, lots of tech Beta on porcelain-hard rock that's some of the best sandstone I've seen anywhere, with none of the features quite as good or positive as they look from below.

    Rest well under the roof (clip a long sling to this bolt), maneuver to the lip, then clip your final bolt and establish on the slab, to the anchors. Nice views of town from here, so take a moment. ... Both myself and Ted redpointed the route for its FA, today.

    Many thanks to Open Space and Mountain Parks, the Flatirons Climbing Council, Flatirons FHRC, and the Access Fund for helping keep new-routing alive and well in the Flatirons; muchas gracias, as well, to Paul G for helping hump the big pack up the hill and with the equipping work. We used entirely stainless-steel half-inch bolts (some are 3.5" long, the others 4.75") and hangers, which should be good for a long while.

    For my money, one of the best 5.13s in Colorado. The route is shady all day, save in the summer from 3 p.m. on.


    Note to armchair grammarians and climbing historians: the correct spelling is: s-zero-zero-k-r-capital E-capital E-m. "s00kreem": Supreme like Diana Ross; creamy like half-and-half.


    One route right of Boys with Power Toys, on the northwest flank of the Slab, Fern Canyon.


    9 bolts to double-bolt anchors.

    Photos of s00kr33m Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: S00kreem sporting a long draw through the crux.
    BETA PHOTO: S00kreem sporting a long draw through the crux.

    Comments on s00kr33m Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 23, 2016
    By Taylor Roy
    From: Midvale, UT
    Nov 17, 2008
    rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

    Nice work guys. This thing looks soo kreem, can't wait to try it. Also, thanks for all the work replacing hardware.
    By Gary Burghoff
    Nov 17, 2008

    Nice work boys, should have called it HOnnEEEcuTTZZZZ.
    By Ben Scott
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Dec 24, 2008

    This route is cool. Needs more traffic, but it's still bomb.
    Gotta get back to finish once this snow crap is over.

    EDIT: Finished this yesterday, worth the effort.
    Felt good to make that long deadpoint in the flow...
    Cleaning up nicely now, get on it!
    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 28, 2009
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

    Definitely worth the hype; 5 start route in a 5 star setting. Thanks Matt and Ted.
    By Bart Paull
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 9, 2009
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

    Great continuous route! Nicely done!
    By Blake Cash
    From: Chattanooga, TN
    Aug 31, 2009

    What's awkward about the lip? It's 5.10 if you know how to mantle. Amazing route...rad holds, solid rock, great setting.
    By Fred Knapp
    Sep 28, 2009
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    Yes, it has rests and it's mostly a boulder problem, but the climbing throughout is very good and fun. An excellent route.
    By Adam Peters
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Mar 20, 2010
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

    Blake, agreed! The lip encounter here is pretty much a quintessential mantle move, one of the best around!
    By Paul Glover
    Jul 5, 2010

    Who is this Kaelen chick and what's her problem? Isn't an "eight move boulder problem" nice and long as boulder problems go? and isn't a bunch of hard .11 what one would expect on easier ground on a hard route? What a knit-picky b#%@h!
    By Stefan Griebel
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Jul 14, 2010

    I just had a good laugh on the nitpickiness over the case-sensitive funky spelling... From the description:

    Note to armchair grammarians and climbing historians: the correct spelling is: s-zero-zero-k-r-capital E-capital E-m. "s00kreem": Supreme like Diana Ross; creamy like half-and-half.

    Ummm, so wouldn't that be "s00krEEm". If you're gonna talk the talk, you gotta walk the walk. I'm just sayin'...

    Great route though. Can't wait to get back on it and figure out the moves better.
    By Pinklebear
    Jul 14, 2010

    Actually, s00krEEm went down to the courthouse yesterday and had its name changed. The new spelling is: s00kr33m. Like grains of sand washing up on the beach, ever changing, ever evolving, so too does it go with such a kr33m33 route name!
    By Mark Rolofson
    Jul 20, 2010

    Hey Paul Glover, Kaelen Williams is not a chick. He is a 19 year old 5.13 climber. I climbed with him quite a lot & belayed him the first day he tried this route. He redpointed it on day 2.
    As for the route, it's a great route. Very hard, too hot the day I tried it! Not an 8 move boulder problem. I believe Kaelen meant the business was like an 8 move boulder problem
    By Madaleine
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Nov 14, 2010
    rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

    Fun learning how to grab a couple of the holds through the crux and get a foot up higher than comfortable.... Thanks all for this great route!
    By reboot
    From: .
    Jun 5, 2011

    Tried the route 6/5. I don't know Kaelen, and while I think one star is a bit harsh, it certainly doesn't compare to either 13s on Dino Rock. The crux moves may deserve 13-, but they aren't particular interesting. The rest of the route is actually pretty good, but I can see why someone wanting to get on a 13 would be disappointed.

    Went back again today, it actually climbed better the second time around. Crux required pretty subtle body position if the route is at your limit.
    By Brady Robinson
    Aug 3, 2011
    rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

    Loved it! Well worth a few hikes up the hill. I found the tall/weak/inflexible beta which really helped. Proper foot placement at the final lip is crucial.
    By Ben Sachs
    Apr 24, 2012
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    I guess I sort of understand the complaints about the route, but damn, dude, it's pretty good! It is essentially a sandwiched long boulder problem with rests before and after the "meat". However, the climbing before and after the meat (the "bread"?) is pretty frickin' sweet on awesome rock. It's probably 5.11+/5.12- through these sections, so not trivial. Overall, an awesome, fun route and totally worthy. Not sure on the grade. Harder than $00pr kr33m.
    By Bobbi Bensman
    Jul 9, 2015
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    I had so much fun doing this route with Sarah Watson! Such a nice setting and very technical. Be careful at the top roof to not slice your rope - had to chop some meters off.
    By ChanVan Schaack
    May 23, 2016

    Wow, what an incredible line - took me a really long time to learn all of the subtleties - body positioning, how to move quickly and 'believe' in the crux slimpers, pinches. and knobs (oh my!), and to realize that you really can't 'relax' until you are established on the upper slab below the roof. I can't really say what I think the grade is - I have never before sent an established 13b, but I can say that this one ended up taking a lot more effort than any of the 13a's I have done over the years. Regardless, a very rewarding and humbling experience projecting and finally sending this thing - if you like "techy, power endurance" or whatever that means, then get on it!

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