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Central Battleship Formation
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
C-5 T 
Honeyshine T 
Poop Deck T 
Red, Yellow, Blue T 
S Church Crack T 
Trim Your Bush T 

S Church Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2-3

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2-3 [details]
FA: Michael Voth
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 157
Submitted By: michael voth on Jul 24, 2015

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High pieces before switching into S crack. #1 bd s...

Description 

crux is the bottom part of the thin splitter. after an opening hook move a #7 stopper (bd) gets you established. From there its thin nutting that appears straight forward, however many of them pulled under a light bounce test from the rock blowing out. Head up the crack to a nice left hand jug where the angle decreases, then look right for a sort of S shaped crack to transfer to. During my ascent a 000 bd C3 worked to get into it. however it was so sandy after much skating of the cam it finally stuck by being pretty much umbrella'ed. Then a slightly larger cam (.3 bd) or stopper (thank god!) will get you high enough to plug a #1 or #2 cam into poop deck and hop on over there to finish at poop decks anchors. if it were longer it'd be proper C3, but there's probably 2 stoppers that with screamers would keep you off the ground before you get the .3 C4.

Location 

immediately to the left of poopdeck. shares anchors.

Protection 

tiny to medium stoppers, nothing bigger than a 3 will go in the initial crack with the exception of a #7 at the start. The normal micro stoppers work better than the rp style ones given they have more surface area. 000 C3, 00 C3, .3 C4, and a couple of hand sized pieces to a #3 C4 for the finish on poop deck. a big hook to start.


Photos of S Church Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Another typical stopper.
Another typical stopper.
Rock Climbing Photo: Typical nut on the initial crack
Typical nut on the initial crack
Rock Climbing Photo: opening hook. Theres one more after this. (a bigge...
opening hook. Theres one more after this. (a bigge...
Rock Climbing Photo: Aid climbin
Aid climbin
Rock Climbing Photo: Route. Up thin crack on left, to squiggly crack up...
Route. Up thin crack on left, to squiggly crack up...

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