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(1) Koala Rock
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Buffalo Power S 
Cool Air S 
Cool Man Luke T 
Crazies T 
Exercise in Futility T 
Exit of Humanity S 
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Hero of the Day S 
I'm your life T 
Keep The Faith T 
King of Pain S 
Knob, The S 
Round Here S 
Round River S 
Round River Direct S 
Round There S 
Ryan's Arete S 
Ryan's Direct S 
Suck my Kiss S 
Thin Air S 
Through Being Cool S 
To Live is to Die S 

Ryan's Arete 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ryan Lawson, Will Darin, Synne Chadwick 1997
Page Views: 1,381
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Start up the face/seam just left of the arete clipping older looking glue-ins for the first 4 clips. Veer a bit right through some odd polished rock and follow a dike for a bit before gaining the arete.
Once you reach the arete you will be clipping new bolts.
Follow the arete to a Fixe biner anchor.


The East face of Koala has a few newer bolted lines. This route is the arete about 200 yards uphill from the Thin Air area just before the rock becomes very overhanging.



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By mark d
Jun 5, 2006

this route, did feel difficult for the grade. it was originally led, mostly on gear.
By bryans
Jun 19, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

seemed pretty stout for the grade. great finish.
By The Farley
From: Idaho Springs
Nov 12, 2013

Hard pitch… felt like I was missing something.
By Rod J.
From: Bend, OR
Mar 9, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Starts out hard (after the 1st bolt) & gets harder all the way until the anchors. This is definitely a full grade above Buffalo Power (which is a solid 10c).
By Chris Winter
From: Portland, OR
May 24, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This is a great pitch and definitely sandbagged at 5.10c. The crack down low is positive and fun but the best climbing is right below the anchor on steep, technical ground with some pretty good fall potential. Check it out.
By Ranae
Sep 24, 2016

I'm glad others think this is sandbagged. Why is the consensus still 10c then? Come on, people. It deserves a D. A big ol' D.
By Phildlm
Mar 26, 2017

What a fun route! I think you could argue this is 10c, possibly 10d. Problem is that its not as hard as other 10d's in the park like Moons of Pluto, Headless Horseman or Reason to Be. I think those are all 11a's so this is what a 10d is supposed to be like. The fall potential is clean the whole way so if in doubt, put your big boy pants on and give it a go. The position is spectacular and the moves are memorable for sure. Do it!
By Trevor Vichas
From: Strawberry, CA
Jul 14, 2017
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I lead this for the first time last fall and got the onsight. I think it's a solid 10c with a few cruxs and agree with Phildm, "put your big boy pants on and give it a go". The route is super fun and memorable!

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