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Ruth Lake

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Assassin Wall 
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Good Medicine Area 
Last Stand Wall 
Memorial Wall 
Pinnacle on North Ridge of Peak 11,158, West of Ruth Lake 
Warrior Wall 

Ruth Lake Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 10,500'
Location: 40.73326, -110.88104 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 49,503
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jan 18, 2006
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

High in the Uintas, Ruth Lake offers steep routes with the odd roof. Mainly shady, pick this location for the hottest of days.

Getting There 

Park just before or at Mile Marker 35. Hike east along the trail from the lower parking lot. 100 yards after the "Haymakers and Hibernators" sign, take a small trail to the left, to access the cliffs.

Climbing Season



Weather station 15.6 miles from here

67 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',38],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',4],['5.8',9],['5.9',5],['5.10',27],['5.11',13],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Ruth Lake

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Ruth Lake:
Crescent Moon   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 50'   Last Stand Wall
Peyote Trip   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   Last Stand Wall
Peace Treaty   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Good Medicine Area
Black Elk   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Good Medicine Area
Chief Sick-ee-Gnar   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Chief Wall
Sacred Hoop   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 60'   Good Medicine Area
Sweat Lodge   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Last Stand Wall
General George Custer   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 40'   Chief Wall
Wounded Knee   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 65'   Good Medicine Area
The Legend   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Good Medicine Area
The Last Stand   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   Last Stand Wall
White Buffalo   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Chief Wall
Moon Stone   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Good Medicine Area
Wind Walker   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Good Medicine Area
Dream Catcher   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport   Good Medicine Area
Dog Man   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Warrior Wall
White Fish   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Chief Wall
Good Medicine   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Good Medicine Area
Ghost Dance   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 40'   Good Medicine Area
Warrior Without a Cause   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Warrior Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Ruth Lake

Featured Route For Ruth Lake
Rock Climbing Photo: Rich working the crimps on MOON STONE 11b

Moon Stone 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  UT : Uinta Mountains : ... : Good Medicine Area
This climb is awesome. Awkward first bolt on slopers and pinches leads to jugs to a little inverted face climbing. Go up through a small chimney and traverse right over the roof. Then get ready for 5 bolts of dead vertical slightly overhung crimpfest. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Ruth Lake Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Crag Day 2015 Climbers giving back
Crag Day 2015 Climbers giving back
Rock Climbing Photo: Stewards, climbers, and stones
Stewards, climbers, and stones
Rock Climbing Photo: Dragging the stones around. Crag Day 2015
Dragging the stones around. Crag Day 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Wet conditions at Ruth Lake
Wet conditions at Ruth Lake
Rock Climbing Photo: Do not feed the Ruth Lake Fauna (Chase Saxton)
Do not feed the Ruth Lake Fauna (Chase Saxton)
Rock Climbing Photo: Unique Ruth Lake Fauna (Chase Saxton)
Unique Ruth Lake Fauna (Chase Saxton)
Rock Climbing Photo: A mountain flower seen seasonally at Ruth Lake
A mountain flower seen seasonally at Ruth Lake
Rock Climbing Photo: The Ruth Crew
The Ruth Crew
Rock Climbing Photo: Pano with walls labeled
BETA PHOTO: Pano with walls labeled
Rock Climbing Photo: this is the good medicine wall
BETA PHOTO: this is the good medicine wall
Rock Climbing Photo: 7 a.m. at ruth lake
7 a.m. at ruth lake
Rock Climbing Photo: Ruth lake & wall
Ruth lake & wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Ruth Lake 7.25.07 Looking toward walls
Ruth Lake 7.25.07 Looking toward walls
Rock Climbing Photo: Even the doggies love the lake!
Even the doggies love the lake!
Rock Climbing Photo: Awwww such a beautiful view from the top of the cl...
Awwww such a beautiful view from the top of the cl...

Comments on Ruth Lake Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Jul 22, 2006
Thanks to the Salt Lake Climbers' Alliance and the Access Fund Adopt-A-Crag, there are now large cairns and trail improvements leading to several of the area's climbing walls, and belay ledges along the steep talus slope on the West side of the Good Medicine Wall. Please stay on the designated trails to reduce impact and erosion, especially around the loose talus slopes and vegetated areas.
By Talia
From: SLC, UT
Aug 19, 2007
most of the cairns are knocked over but still distinguishable. Kudos for the work! Looks great! West side of good medicine is still a mess with dogs and little children making for some dangerous rock falls...
By Bad Sock Puppet
Jul 26, 2008
Although I prefer bouldering and sport, I was quite disappointed when I didn't bring my trad gear as no guides seemed to list more than one or two possible trad routes. Contrary to this there are a number of cracks that offer plenty of gear placement. Mostly 1/2" to 2 1/2" wide. Would be a good idea to bring a good supply of runners.
By Blake Summers
From: Park City, Utah
Aug 21, 2012
Huge thanks to SLCA, Acess Fund's Conservation team, and American Alpine Club for all the hard work done around Good Medicine Wall!!! The new stairs will provide safe access to the West side routes of GMW for generations!! The "C"- team put in some serious OT on this one! and thanks to Julia Geisler(ED SLCA) for bringing it home to the Uintas!!
By darrell hodges
Aug 26, 2012
The stone staircase on the right side of Good Medicine Wall is VERY nicely done, a big improvement to the area. It looks like a lot of hard work. Thanks SLCA.
By JeffL
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 10, 2014
The approach beta is slightly off. Hike west, not east from the parking lot. It's the same major trail as the Ruth lake hiking trail. There is a wooden sign that says "climbing" where you leave the main trail.

Also, the routes are bolted but almost all of them would go on gear. Bring a rack of nuts, tricams, and small camalots if you're into mixing things up a bit.
By Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Aug 21, 2015
Join the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance and the Forest Service and give back to the Ruth Lake climbing area at the Sept 5th, 2015 Adopt a Crag 9-2PM. Help protect the places you love to play and come out for this staging area and trail work day.

REGISTER at satllakeclimbers.org

NOTICE! If you are planning to climb at Ruth Lake on Sept 5th, the west side (right side) of the Good Medicine Wall and maybe some other locations at Ruth will be closed for this work day. Please consider lending a hand and be an up-stander and not a by-stander.

Rock Climbing Photo: Ruth Lake Adopt a Crag
Ruth Lake Adopt a Crag
By Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Jul 3, 2016
VOLUNTEERS NEEDED
RUTH LAKE, UINTAS ADOPT A CRAG
JULY 30th, 2016
What: Bridge building and stone staircase maintenance with the SLCA and the Forest Service. Bring water and snacks. Long pants, close-toed shoes, helmets, gloves, sun protection and sunglasses are required. The SLCA has extra gloves, helmets, and eye protection if you need to borrow gear. Expect heavy lifting and physical work. BBQ by the American Alpine Club & Moab Brewery after the work.
An Adopt a Crag is about giving back to the climbing areas we use on a regular basis. It is important that we make an effort to maintain and care for our climbing areas in order to keep them open. Climbing is a privilege and not a right. Give back to your crag and volunteer with us today.
Time: 10am-3pm  
Where: Meet at the Ruth Lake Trailhead and Parking Lot just after mile marker 35 along the Mirror Lake Scenic Byway.
REGISTER HERE saltlakeclimbers.org/adopt-a-c...

Rock Climbing Photo: Help Crush the Ruth Lake Adopt a Crag Project
Help Crush the Ruth Lake Adopt a Crag Project
By Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Aug 9, 2016
On July 29th The Evanston Forest Service (USFS), Blake Summers, Julia Geisler, and Jason Cazier met at Ruth Lake to prepare for the following days event, the Ruth Lake Adopt a Crag 2016. The group worked into the evening staging rocks and planning logistics.

The following day, 25 volunteers arrived to do stewardship work and show support for the SLCA. White Pine Touring provided bagels for the volunteers and the Samak Country Store and Smokehouse provided the coffee. Between 10am and 3pm, the volunteers, USFS, and crew leads worked tirelessly to enhance and preserve the Ruth Lake trail. Lunch was provided by the American Alpine Club and brews by Moab Brewery.

The second stream crossing was addressed. 40 feet of tread was armored and a stone bridge was constructed.

The last section of approach trail to the Good Medicine Wall was improved and the great retaining wall on the west end stairs was continued.

Overall the day was a huge success with over 175 volunteer hours being put in and high priority projects getting done. The relationship between the USFS Evanston District and the SLCA continues to strengthen.

By: Blake Summers
Rock Climbing Photo: Ruth Lake Adopt a Crag
Ruth Lake Adopt a Crag