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Ruth-Icy Traverse T 

Ruth-Icy Traverse 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2000', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b Easy Snow [details]
Season: Year round
Page Views: 197
Submitted By: Jade Ajani on Sep 29, 2016

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Icy Peak summit


Climb Ruth Mountain from the north via Hannegan Pass and the Ruth Glacier. Descend ~800' south and west from the summit toward a gully on the west side of the peak. You should be able to see Icy Peak clearly from this gully/notch, as well as the impressive Nooksack Cirque to its west. Find a faint trail and descend another ~800 ft. to the low saddle between Ruth and Icy. Ascend talus and slabs below a rock ridge until you can gain access to the glacier. Aim for a notch/saddle west of the Northwest Spire of Icy at about 6500 ft. From here you have another ~500 feet of 2nd-3rd class to the 100' high 4th class summit gully. Rock is mostly pretty good and climbing is casual. The gully can be rapped on the way down but downclimbing it is also no problem.


snow pickets, rope, crampons, axe

Photos of Ruth-Icy Traverse Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ascending Icy with Ruth behind to the north
Ascending Icy with Ruth behind to the north

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