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La Placa Roja
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Ruta Normal T 

Ruta Normal 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 800'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c R [details]
FA: 
Season: Summer
Page Views: 434
Submitted By: russellHOBART on Feb 11, 2014

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The start of Pitch 2 of Ruta Normal in Cajon del M...

Description 

Follow the arete up the line of least resistance. More description to follow
Pitch 1- 5.5 Scramble up left side of arete to anchor 100'.
Pitch 2- 5.6 Take the crack on the left up and through some broken rock to a large terrace 100'.
Pitch 3- 5.7 Follow the good holds on the right or the more vertical climbing on the left 100'.
Pitch 4- 5.8 Go up the right hand side 100'
Pitch 5- 5.7 Take the middle crack then traverse left at the horizontal and continue up 100'
Pitch 6- 5.8 Climb around the gendarme to the left and head up 100'
Pitch 7- 5.8 Run it out to the right or climb the more difficult/ protectable left variation 100'.
Pitch 8- Pick your poison with the run out last pitch (good pin on the right variation)100'.

Descent- Rappel off west facing side with two ropes (knots in the bottom) on first rappel 200' and one rope on the second 100'.

Warning! -At the base of this route a memorial for some kid who died as a result of rock fall. There is TONS of loose rock on ledges and rappelling and climbing can be quite treacherous.
Final rappel should not be done where you climbed but on the plumb line off to climbers left. On all rappels take advantage of the overhangs so that your partner doesn't rain rocks down on you

Location 

Arete on left side of the first Placa you come to. Belay bolt marks the start

Protection 

Mostly bolted anchor/rappel stations.


Photos of Ruta Normal Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Placa Roja in the distance.
Placa Roja in the distance.
Rock Climbing Photo: View from second belay station
View from second belay station
Rock Climbing Photo: Wide view of 2nd belay station
Wide view of 2nd belay station
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up towards the start of the route. With Do...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up towards the start of the route. With Do...

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