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Ruta de Roja 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 931
Submitted By: 46and2 on Apr 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Follow the crack up past the left side of the bush...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This route has a couple good moves but is lacking a distinct crux. Pro is somewhat mossy so be careful. This route is worth doing once while in the area getting the other routes ticked off. NOTICE: This route and Fontanar's descriptions and length in the Brock/McMillan guidebood are off; routes are at around 180 feet in length!


This route shares the same start as Fontanar; but after about 15 feet on the pillar; traverse right on big holds to the obvious thin crack. Follow this crack up to the chimney; climb through the chimney and up the face to build your anchor.


Trad rack only with more of the small to medium sized wires and cams. Be a little careful; the varnished crack down low is a little mossy; make sure your placements are good. Up high, there is some friable rock so climb softly. No anchors; just walk off like you would on Fontanar de Rojo.

Photos of Ruta de Roja Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just starting the varnished "mossy" crac...
Just starting the varnished "mossy" crac...
Rock Climbing Photo: Follow the thin crack all the way to the chimney!
Follow the thin crack all the way to the chimney!
Rock Climbing Photo: Same start as Fontanar; in about five feet you sho...
Same start as Fontanar; in about five feet you sho...

Comments on Ruta de Roja Add Comment
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By Cunning Linguist
Apr 10, 2007

When I climbed this route, there were fixed slings and rings around boulders in a chimney about 80-100 feet up (red and blue). Was told by the F/Aers of the mixed variation on the face (Randy Marsh and Pier Locatelli) that they put them in as the topout seemed like more work than was worth if you're out cragging and hanging out in Calico just to do these routes. I topped out anyway and had fun, but if I went back, I'd rap.
By MN norske
From: Henderson
Apr 20, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Slings at the top are gone. Had to traverse over to the anchors for the 5.8 sport anchors. PG-13 due to the lack of protection down low.
By Ben Townsend
Apr 14, 2016

Fun and well protected, more like 5.6 than 5.7. We traversed into the right crack a bit higher, at a diagonal seam, rather than stepping right at the initial ledge. 180' is about right if you do all the climbing, though one could stop at about 150' and then scramble up a loose gully on the right.
By Nick Drake
From: Newcastle, WA
Mar 27, 2017

I would agree on lack of pro down low, the climbing there is quite easy though. Still pretty mossy in the crack. I wasn't lichen it.

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