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Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown) T 
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Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rusty Baille and Mark Craddock, 1978?
Page Views: 2,135
Submitted By: chris righter on Apr 1, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Me pulling the move to the anchors. I'm sure there...


This climbs a cupped hands corner to an OW roof. It starts out okay, but it deteriorates at the wide roof. The route requires some wide stuff for pro, or you can just punch it to the anchor.


This is roughly 100 feet climber's left of WHJ.


#3-#5 Camalots. Bolted anchor with rope and biner.

Photos of Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me in the "cave."
Me in the "cave."
Rock Climbing Photo: Me taking a rest inside the spacious pod at the to...
Me taking a rest inside the spacious pod at the to...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading "Rusty's Cave".
Me leading "Rusty's Cave".
Rock Climbing Photo: A picture from the base.
A picture from the base.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cupped hands corner to OW roof.
BETA PHOTO: Cupped hands corner to OW roof.

Comments on Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown) Add Comment
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By slim
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Per Desert Rock, 'Rusty's Cave, 5.10". FA: Rusty Baille and Mark Craddock, 1978. Original descent, walk-off. The anchors kind of eliminate the crux up the final OW/palming mantle deal. Fun route with fairly good rock and a really cool, featured wide section.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Sep 14, 2010

I TR'ed this one in tennies the other day, it was pretty well suited for it I thought. Also, I got wonderful stacked hands through most of the wide bit.
By Martin Harris
Sep 21, 2010

I was there for the tennies send, but a number 6 was pretty clutch in the roof to protect the last bit before the anchor.
By Eric Haye
From: Boulder
Oct 17, 2011

I think a #5 is the better piece for the roof as I couldn't get a #6 without it being way over cammed. 5.9+ is about right. Fun route with the right gear.
By jeffro popko
From: montrose,co
Apr 2, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The top out is a fun 5.10 move, just because the anchors are where they are doesn't mean you shouldn't do it. The anchors are placed well and eliminate rope drag which is a constant problem out here.
By george wilkey
From: travelers rest sc
Jun 15, 2013

I thought this was a fun route, especially that move coming out of the cave. I used a #4 1/2, it was perfect.
By Brandon Chalk
Oct 19, 2015

I'd say the topout roof move to the anchors is 5.9+/5.10- with the route up to that point being 5.9, and a #5 cam worked perfectly in the roof. Fun route.

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