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Rusty Trifle 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 1950 Hans Kraus and Bonnie Prudden
Page Views: 2,595
Submitted By: Stefano Prezioso on Apr 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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Matt belaying Kevin on the 2nd pitch of Rusty Trif...


Fun first pitch, with easy, wandering climbing to the top.

P1) Go up the left-facing corner about 30 feet, then traverse right for 30 feet (crux) to a ledge. 5.5

P2) Climb up and right to a large block, then up and left to a right facing corner. Go up this corner and continue straight to the overhangs. After, go up and left to the GT Ledge, belay off tree. 5.3

P3) Go up the face right of a big block to an overhang. Go up and right, then up and left, and pass a small, white, right-facing corner to a pine tree belay/rap station. 5.3

Make sure to protect as well as possible on the traverse to avoid a large pendulum for the second.


Shares a start with Bloody Mary, a few feet right of Morning After. 15 foot high left-facing corner with a crack approximately 30 feet high.

Rappel straight down with a single rope in three rappels off of trees.


P1 Anchor takes smaller gear and tricams in pockets.

P2 & 3 are tree belays.

Standard rack. Climb takes lots of nuts and tricams. A few old fixed pins scattered about.

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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 10, 2011

Overall a fun, almost-accurate 5.3 Gunks climb. The 5.5 start from the left has no protection for the leader or the follower for about 20 feet. A swing would scrape you up, but there are no corners to swing into and there's no ground fall potential. Also there are virtually no hands for a few of those 20 feet. The anchor at P1 (5.5) is small gear and tricams.

Pitches 2 and 3 were almost on grade, with great Gunky face climbing and plenty of protection. The only non-5.3 section was the last couple of moves at the very top of P2, I found them to be maybe 5.4 or 5.5-ish.

Definitely a sleeper climb and something I'd bring beginners on.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 15, 2011

Kevin, not sure what you are talking about with no pro for the first 20 feet. There are old pins and decent placements during the entire traverse. It's a great climb and the traverse adds some fun to the 5.3 pitches above. If you are a new leader, I would recommend skipping the 5.5 traverse and starting from the Bloody Bush ledge. Much fun climbing on this route.
By A.wilk Wilk
From: Olympia, WA
Apr 19, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

The first pitch of this is definitely worth doing. The climbing up to the traverse is easy, the traverse protects very well and it ends with a nice jughaul up to a pine tree rap station. Great way to really appreciate good ol' gunks traversing.
By Optimistic
From: New Paltz
Aug 4, 2015

Overall kind of a strange climb, a bit dirty and wandering, but an engaging adventure. Did the p1 traverse in a downpour which was cool.

Did the "Trusty Feet" variation to p2 described in the Gunks app: climb straight up from the p2 tree, not much pro, nested a gray and purple c3 about 20 feet above the ledge and was glad I did, past an almost buried pin (needs to be tied off) and then up some interesting face and slab moves (6+,supposedly) to a rail that leads to jugs and the GT.
By awolf
From: New York, NY
Jan 30, 2016

Overall liked the route. Thought the traverse protected quite well and there were sufficient holds if you find them. Thought the second pitch was the best- unusual to get such a fun roof at only 5.3. Also did the "Trusty Feet" variation which I'd recommend.
By J. Serpico
From: Saratoga County, NY
Mar 3, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

I gave this a PG13 rating for the traverse, however, it would be a PG rating if that was an option. The gear on the traverse is ok; it's there, but not necessarily straightforward. When your primary gear before the crux is a micro nut and a screamer on a decrepit pin, it can't quite be G rated when it's a 5.5 climb. I was able to get a piece in not too far after the pin (at what I considered the end of the crux), and then it was a series of flared/muddy horizontals. As far as those folks saying the pins offer protection: seriously, NO! Those are exposed ring pins in the middle of the traverse and the first pin is in decent shape but shouldn't be counted on. They are probably 50 years old. Midway through the traverse there is a muddy flared crack system that takes tricams nicely.

I ended up leading the whole climb on tricams, nuts, and a single clipped pin. The rest of the climb beyond the traverse is straight forward. Definitely the 5.3 option is a good beginners climb.
By Joe Kain
From: Philadelphia, PA
May 21, 2017

(Perhaps obvious) Beta Alert: An old pin sitting below the first traverse can fool you into heading down low rather than moving across the roof. Once I clipped it I found myself cursing and shuffling up and down the wall above the pin for a half hour looking for something positive to grab onto in order to reach the webbed anchor that sits along the traverse next to a bush. I finally backtracked the traverse and moved back up to the roof to find easier terrain.

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