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Rusty Shackleford 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Derek
Page Views: 1,281
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jan 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Derek on the FA.


This route starts off with a bang. The first few clips through thin face climbing is the crux. After reaching the small ledge, continue on hard 5.10 climbing up and left to the anchors.

Beware of some loose blocks. When I did this route, I almost pulled off a 30 pounder off on the small ledge above the crux.


This is the first route around the corner to the left of Churchill.


8 bolts.

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By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 21, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Not too bad of a climb, just not very consistent. The difficulty eases up considerably after the first two or three clips. The ledges provide lengthy rests.
By elliotgaddy
Nov 16, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Probably more like 11c off the ground to 10 up high.
By Alix
Apr 28, 2009

Yeah I agree with Elliot, and even so I only think a couple of the moves in the begining are 11c. Definitely not a consistent grade but a fun climb nonetheless.
By JudsonDoyle
Jan 15, 2010

I just wanted to clear up the grade on this ole girl. It was originally thought to be 11b not 11d. There was a miss communication when the ink hit the page all those years back, (which is weird since we were all totally sober...). So, a "b" was heard and written as "d". Honestly, who cares? It's a fun route for a pile! If you want to have more fun on the route, check out the dyno at the beginning, now everyone goes left.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Nov 6, 2016

This one might be a little harder, since the good crimp at the crux has broken.

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