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Comatose Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Animal Cracker T 
Comatose T 
Conception T,S 
Cookie Time in Budapest T 
Egg Hunt T 
Family Feud T,S 
Gingerbread Man T 
Lost Face T,S 
Name Unknown T,S 
Preying Mantis T 
Pull the Plug S 
Resurrection T 
Resurrection Ramp T 
Rusty Redneck T,S 
That's the Way the Cookie Crumbles T 
Trick or Feet T,S 
unknown S 
Unknown 2 T,TR 
Waltzing Matilda T 

Rusty Redneck 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ian McAlexander, Sean Cobourn, Eric Mullins, Greg Mullins, 1993
Season: Fall - Spring
Page Views: 2,203
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Mar 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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BETA PHOTO: Fun time following this 10.c

Description 

Rusty Redneck climbs a thin blunt arete to start then follows a series of crimpy face edges up a face. Fun climbing. Crux is down low on the route. A piece or three may ease the mind.

Location 

RR is located up hill from Comatose on a ledge just right of a gully. From the top of this ledge you can see the upper portion of Comatose.

Protection 

Six bolts...not counting/climbing the one way right (fourth). Anchors at the top. I recall being able to do this route with one 60m rope.


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By rock_fencer
From: Columbia, SC
Jan 12, 2012

After the first three bolts on the arete keep left and resist the temptation to follow the line of least resistance.
By Jeff Jenkins
Feb 25, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Lead this a couple times now, think its the best around that grade at the Bald, crux is getting through the first 3 low bolts, dont head right towards a lone high bolt, very runout that way.
By The Pilsner Prophet
From: Albuquerque N.M.
Jun 22, 2014

Was this route originally called "Rusty Rednecks and the Superbowl Stool Pigeons"? I led this thing not long after Ian & the rest did the first ascent. They were calling it 5.8 At the time. I remember it being a great, fun route. It seems like a lot of the routes we did were upgraded. What ever Happened to Ian? I'll never forget when he showed up at Buzzard Hill with a toad tattooed on his shoulder.
By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Oct 14, 2014

He is happily living out in SLC area now.
By EthanC
Mar 11, 2015

I brought and placed a few small cams to protect the runout around the 4th bolt. Didn't see multiple bolt lines, tried staying left as advised and still got into some runout terrain. Only 5.8/9ish climbing there IIRC. I probably placed a 1 and 3 mastercam.
By Ian McAlexander
Oct 19, 2016

A few details on this one.

1. I think the bolt way out right is for Cookie Time.
2. A few small cams fit nicely in the horizontal grooves that come after the crux.
3. It appears that for the last moves, you have to leave a good stance to reach the last bolt. That spot is actually protectable with a pink tricam. There is a two-finger pocket around your feet and to the right (approximately). Since all NC climbers always carry their trusty pinky, the bolt seemed unnecessary.