|Type:||Trad, Sport, 100'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Ian McAlexander, Sean Cobourn, Eric Mullins, Greg Mullins, 1993|
|Season:||Fall - Spring|
|Submitted By:||Jeff Mekolites on Mar 27, 2007|
|Comments on Rusty Redneck||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Columbia, SC
Jan 12, 2012
|After the first three bolts on the arete keep left and resist the temptation to follow the line of least resistance.|
By Jeff Jenkins
Feb 25, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
|Lead this a couple times now, think its the best around that grade at the Bald, crux is getting through the first 3 low bolts, dont head right towards a lone high bolt, very runout that way.|
By The Pilsner Prophet
From: Albuquerque N.M.
Jun 22, 2014
|Was this route originally called "Rusty Rednecks and the Superbowl Stool Pigeons"? I led this thing not long after Ian & the rest did the first ascent. They were calling it 5.8 At the time. I remember it being a great, fun route. It seems like a lot of the routes we did were upgraded. What ever Happened to Ian? I'll never forget when he showed up at Buzzard Hill with a toad tattooed on his shoulder.|
By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Oct 14, 2014
|He is happily living out in SLC area now.|
Mar 11, 2015
|I brought and placed a few small cams to protect the runout around the 4th bolt. Didn't see multiple bolt lines, tried staying left as advised and still got into some runout terrain. Only 5.8/9ish climbing there IIRC. I probably placed a 1 and 3 mastercam.|
By Ian McAlexander
Oct 19, 2016
A few details on this one.
1. I think the bolt way out right is for Cookie Time.
2. A few small cams fit nicely in the horizontal grooves that come after the crux.
3. It appears that for the last moves, you have to leave a good stance to reach the last bolt. That spot is actually protectable with a pink tricam. There is a two-finger pocket around your feet and to the right (approximately). Since all NC climbers always carry their trusty pinky, the bolt seemed unnecessary.