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Rusty Pins 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 48
Submitted By: wivanoff on Mar 11, 2016

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Climb the open book until you reach a point just below the roof. Step right (loose block) and up a groove to the right of the first roof. Finish through the final roof above or traverse right and up on easier rock.

In the 1980s we found two ancient rusty pitons on this route. For identification purposes and because we had little hard information we began to give some of these routes “working names” until we could learn more. It’s amusing to see how some of our “working names” have stuck and were adopted. “That bolted route” became “Bolted 5.9” on the Chin. “That route with the rusty pins” became “Rusty Pins 5.8” out at the Tower Area.


Behind the free standing pinnacle is a low angle wall followed by an alcove. Start 10' to the right of the alcove, at a wide open book with a 8" tree at its base and a 3' roof about halfway up.


Bring a standard trad rack. If the two rusty pins are still there, they are useless.

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