REI Community
New Directions Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Garden Party T 
Rusty Nail S 

Rusty Nail 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: John Newman, Will Crjenko (11/1982)
Page Views: 727
Submitted By: Chris Joy on Apr 25, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
After cleaning the route. The twins, aka, Austin &...


Very fun climb with a great view. This climb is the farthest to the left on New Directions Cliff. Starts behind a tree and climbs a 20’ wide face and arête on the right. Finishes with a small bowl with 2 rap rings for rappeling. Use 2 60m ropes to rap down. I used an 80m rope to lead, and rap to the bottom. I suggest this route for new climbers or new leaders.


This climb is the farthest to the left on New Directions Cliff. Starts behind a tree and climbs a 20’ wide face and arête on the right.


10 quickdraws are 'needed', but you can skip several bolts as the route is well protected with lots of jugs, and finger crimps at the arete. Someone added several bolts to the left to end up on top of the rock.

Photos of Rusty Nail Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dalton taking the reins.
Dalton taking the reins.
Rock Climbing Photo: Austin following/cleaning.
Austin following/cleaning.
Rock Climbing Photo: Austin rappeling.
Austin rappeling.
Rock Climbing Photo: On top after leading
On top after leading

Comments on Rusty Nail Add Comment
Show which comments
By Guy Keesee
From: Moorpark, CA
Apr 15, 2016

Wow, 10 bolts now. I can't recall any climb of Eddy's that has 10 bolts. So this is the new way, I guess.
By Chris Joy
May 27, 2016

Guy, I just inform of the route, and what there is. There are a lot of "locals" that have put up several bolts after the fact. There are 10+ bolts now on the route, but I always skip 3-4 every time I lead this.
By Wanderwegger
May 31, 2016

There are actually quite a few locals (live in Kernville) that enjoy climbing here.
Herb Laegar and John Newman call this bolted route Wyonnas Big Brown Beaver, and say that Garden party is farther left. The second pitch up to the left is Bootlaeger, one of Herbs new routes.
He just published a guide for New Directions and the Slabs, now over 100 routes including some great new ones that he put up. His site is
By Chris Joy
Sep 25, 2016

Wanderwegger I picked up their local "guidebook" today. Who are they to rename a classic route? "Wyonnas Big Brown Beaver" is NOT the name of this route.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 26, 2016

You tell 'em, Chris. There's way too much renaming of old established routes going on.
Don't know that I agree with Guy regarding the METH, but thank you for calling folks out on this unsavory practice.
By Chris Joy
Jan 6, 2017

After much research, and getting my hands on the 1983 Stonersmashers, this route is actually called Rusty Nail. Garden Party is several feet to the left of this route. Both routes were originally trad routes that ended at the same belay station on top of the arete.
By Herb Laeger
Jan 11, 2017

Actually none of the routes were renamed. Here is the history as I know of it. The earliest route on the "Rusty Nail Wall" was supposedly called "Rusty Nail" by John Newman. I brought John up to the wall before printing the new guide and asked him where the route went. I pointed out that the old Stonemasher guide implies it went up near the middle of the face. John said that he couldn't remember where it went but, that at that time, he never would have climbed the face as there was little or no protection. He did remember that he climbed a crack and found a rusty nail along the way. Hence his moniker for this area. Perhaps he climbed the main corner on the left side of the wall, he doesn't know, but that would be my guess.

As for Wyonnas Big Brown Beaver, my first knowledge of this route, which is the bolted route up the center of the lower part of the RN wall, was from John Jones who was on the first(?) ascent party that placed the bolts. He and Russ Nakatsakasa(sp?, not me and Newman, then named the route Wionna's BBB. They also put in the belay bolts on the second pitch which goes up right near the edge.

As for garden party, no one seems to really know. Some of the older routes were put up by people just starting to climb some 4 decades ago and they often connected unobvious disjointed cracks and face. Much has been lost to time. Nevertheless, if Chris Joy knows of a more accurate history, I'm certainly willing to be informed.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About