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Rusty Cage 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: John Burcham & John Mattson
Page Views: 2,620
Submitted By: Will Cobb on Apr 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Doug on Rusty Cage


Rusty Cage is the "Indian Creek" splitter of Sedona. This route climbs a sweet hands to large hands crack in a left facing corner for 70ft to a two bolt rap anchor. To access the corner make a short traversing move past a drilled pin and into the crack.

This route is very hand size dependent. For small hands it could be fists to ow. For large hands it will probably feel like a ladder.


From the Mace approach, follow the spur trail around the north side of North Mesa. Continue around to the West face of this formation. Rusty Cage is actually located on a sub-tower off the Southwest corner of North Mesa. Find the obvious chimney that marks The Hurricane. From The Hurricane base hike up and left to access the start ledge. Fat Bastard (5.11- OW) also starts from this ledge.


1-2 x 2 Camalot
5-7 x 3 Camalot
1-2 x 3.5 Camalot

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Rock Climbing Photo: Doug on Rusty Cage
Doug on Rusty Cage
Rock Climbing Photo: Rusty Cage
BETA PHOTO: Rusty Cage
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug on Rusty Cage
Doug on Rusty Cage
Rock Climbing Photo: Rusty Cage
Rusty Cage

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By Mike
From: Phoenix
Jun 30, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route favors those of us with larger hands. Lots of fun.
By Clay Lippincott
Feb 24, 2016

This route is super fun and can be hard for those of us with small hands. The first step across to get started in the crack has a view! .. Well worth the trip!
By Bill Lundeen
From: Lee Vining, CA
Nov 16, 2016

Yeah, baby!! For those of us who drool over Indian Creek's cracks this one is the money.... Superb, never-ending big hands/cups.

We brought the gear mentioned, but could never get the "new" 4 into the crack anywhere. To do it again I'd bring 7 #3 Camalots and leave the 3.5 or 4 down.
By A. Frost
Feb 4, 2017

There's a foot on the face any time you really want one. The rest of the time it is cruiser cups and big hands. One or two #2 and four to five #3 make this secure climb fun!

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