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AAA Crag
Routes Sorted
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"Unknown 1" S 
AAA S 
Albuquerque Isotopes S 
Rusty Bridges S 
Unknown 2 T 
Unknown 3 T 

Rusty Bridges 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Mark Anderson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 322
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Feb 27, 2016

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North Face topo. Routes: 1. Albuquerque Isotope...

Raptor Closures - 2016 Tunnel 2 Closure Lifted / Upper Canyon Road closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Gaylord Focker’s doppelganger consists of three boulder problems, each a bit easier than the last, split by taxing rests. This line has the best rock on the formation, providing an engaging, pumpy outing that is quite sustained for a 40-foot climb.

The hardest sequence begins just off the ground, where the juggy, right-facing sidepull flake ends. Make a series of dynamic slaps between slanted edges, capped by a long stretch to a flat, horizontal rail. Mantel onto the rail for a strenuous shake with good hands and insecure feet. Step off the rail and into the next crux—more long cranks between small edges. Where the holds dry up, stretch for another horizontal rail--this one smaller but more positive than the last—where the route intersects “Unknown 1”. At this point, it’s possible to move right into AAA for a full recovery and trivial finishing sequence, but the FA stayed left of the arête, enjoying one more strenuous shake before another tricky mantle onto the featured slab.

Location 

This is the next bolted route left of the arête.

Protection 

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor (shared with "Unknown 1" and AAA).


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By RYAN NELSON
From: Golden
Sep 1, 2016
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Rock Climbing Photo: View from AAA crag.
View from AAA crag.

I enjoyed this line, it probably won't be a classic, but it is a fun offering if you are looking to get off the beaten path. I think it is a bit soft if you are tall. Nice job, Mark, thanks for all the additions to the canyon.