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Rusty Bong 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 2,240
Submitted By: C Runyan on Sep 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Brendan Maguire a third of the way up the pitch


A left-leaning crack in a corner system that rewards good jam/stem/lieback technique. The exit moves through the roof are a bit tricky, and can be difficult to protect. (The eponymous rusty bong has been removed from the crack and was last seen several years ago.)


Start at the base of the huge, left-facing corner/crack system.


cams up to #3 camalot

Photos of Rusty Bong Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leslie Newman on Rusty Bong circa 2001.
Leslie Newman on Rusty Bong circa 2001.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tanner smearing to victory
Tanner smearing to victory

Comments on Rusty Bong Add Comment
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By Bob Johnson
From: Philadelphia, PA
May 25, 2014

The chimney to the left above Rusty Bong is VERY unstable. I was climbing this yesterday, got to the chimney, stood up and about 1000 pounds of rock pulled out and tumbled down the face of the cliff. Unbelievably, none of us were hurt. There is still probably a lot of loose rock up there. Due to the rock fall, there is now a large boulder on the ledge halfway up that is loose and is ready to fall.
By Chris Irwin
From: Silver Spring, Maryland
Jun 26, 2016

I've climbed this route 3 times and always finish out left through the Fern Crack Chimney because I don't want to climb through the slime. What do others do?

Also standard rack to #2. Double up #1 #2 if you want to sew it shut.
By Tom Tufts
Aug 7, 2017

Lots of smearing on the left wall, this was my first 5.8 trad climb and it wasn't a great one. Ended up sewing it up and lots of really quick placements when I thought my feet were about to slip off the left slab.

Got to the top and there is a SUPER tight chimney/roof spot to try to squeeze through/around, or go over a roof with no holds. Ended up traversing way left to Fern Crack for the top out.

Only solid place I could find for an anchor ended up running the rope over 3 ledges and putting a TON of rope drag in the system. I later found a better spot above Fern Crack, wish I had found it the first time.

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