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Rusty Blade 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Wade Forrest, JJ Schlick
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, winter, spring
Page Views: 832
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jan 17, 2015

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Walshie approaching the crux on his onsight second...

Description 

Rusty Blade is a very cool variation to The Scythe which cuts the grade down to 5.10- or so, and features great granitesque climbing, on more or less bomber sticky rock.

Begin as for The Scythe. After the sixth bolt look for a bolt out left as you enter the small right facing dihedral. A couple lay backs will lead to another bolt out left on a black section of a blunt arête. Start moving left around the arête past varnished crimps, a small heavily textured rail feature, and an amazing black knob that will see you to a good rest stance above.

From the stance a nice hand jam pod shows up just in time. Some clever footwork will see you through a wide "runnel", and onto the huge blade feature on climbers right. A beautiful rusty colored water streak awaits which is loaded with cool pockets. Scamper to the anchor and enjoy the view.

Running the rope left to right at the anchors, and lowering over the large blade feature will help mitigate rope drag. However, there is going to be drag when lowering no matter what.

Location 

Starts on The Scythe.

Protection 

11 lead bolts
2 bolt anchor with 3/8" quick links, no fixed biners
13 draws


Photos of Rusty Blade Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Walshie enjoying the beautiful black knob, and abo...
Walshie enjoying the beautiful black knob, and abo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris, working his way up the Scythe/Rusty Blade s...
Chris, working his way up the Scythe/Rusty Blade s...
Rock Climbing Photo: photo topo.
BETA PHOTO: photo topo.

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