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Russian Meteors 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 445
Submitted By: Patrick O'Donnell on Nov 19, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: basic topo

Description 

This route ascends the middle face between "Directchossimo" and "Psmead" at the lower solarium area. This the face adjacent from Shocker that doesn't get alot of traffic.

Russian Meteors starts on a huge dangling and intimidating looking flake (it's actually not hard). Clip the first bolt on the dangling flake and stand up tall to clip the 2nd bolt. from here do some hard moves 11+/12a to reach a jug and clip the 3rd bolt. Climb an amazing face (10+) for a long ways that meets with the last 2 bolts of Psmead (11b). clip the last 2 bolts of psmead (possibly with long runners) as well as the Psmead anchor and continue for 5 more bolts into an ever steepening headwall with a crux before the anchor. Grab an improbable looking crescent arch jug hold and clip the chains.

Location 

between Directchossimo and Psmead in the lower solarium.

Protection 

bolts


Comments on Russian Meteors Add Comment
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By Jeff Scheuerell
Feb 16, 2014

Looks awesome but gotta wonder about that first bolt???
By Patrick O'Donnell
Apr 28, 2014

First bolt is OK. I hammered that flake with my hammer and yarded on it. A fellow route developer TR'd it with me before bolts were added. I initially did not want to put a bolt there but he insisted that it was the right place to put the first bolt. Otherwise no protection going to the 2nd. I doubt anyone would actually ever fall there.
By Patrick O'Donnell
Jan 16, 2015

The consensus is that it's an excellent route to the first anchor shared with Psmead to the right. Above that people think it's a bit dirty. it'll probably clean up but it's probably not as high quality as the first pitch to first anchor.
By brucy
May 9, 2015

Ahhh...this is a 35 "meter" lead, not 35'. Use a 60 meter rope at your peril.
Somewhat run on the easier flakey section in the middle.