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Bill's Buttress
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Russian Gadgets T,TR 
Sour Queen TR 
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Russian Gadgets 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: ????
Season: All year with friendly conditions
Page Views: 123
Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on Jun 2, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: The line of "Russian Gadgets".

Description 

This climb tackles the arête/face/slab that lies between the route Escalation (left) and Coatimundi Crack (right) and just behind the large mature and prominent tree. There are two cruxes. The first is just a bit off the deck at the 20 ft. mark and involves the temptation to lean into the tree to make the move easier. Don't do it and keep it legit and 5.9+. The second crux is up high at 3/4 height on the upper slab face and involves thin crimps and side pulls off good feet at a nice horizontal. The climb ends at the big ledge shared by both the adjoining routes and climber finishes climbing to the top via the upper groove of the normal Coatimundi Crack. I am quite sure this climb has been top roped over the many years but it does not appear in any guidebook I have checked. I practiced the moves on TR and planned out the gear
placements then went back and led from ground up. I gave it the R safety rating because of the small gear options at and above the first crux.

Location 

Arete/Face/Slab between the routes Escalation and Coatimundi Crack behind large mature tree.

Protection 

The protection is bomber but at the feet at both cruxes (good deep and stacked cams in solid horizontal cracks). There is a deep but small RP#3 placement at the first crux to keep from hitting the ground. Above the first crux there is a small run-out but on easier moves. There is a nice bomber #2 Ballnut placement that protects the move off the ledge up the arête onto the face and into the horizontal that protects the upper crux.


Comments on Russian Gadgets Add Comment
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By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jun 3, 2017

Nicely done Burt!
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Jun 3, 2017

Thanks for adding this. I remember leading this back in the day. Kind of a forgotten gem. I don't think we even had a name for it back then. Cheers
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 5, 2017

Hello Steve. I was quite sure this route had been climbed over the years and especially TR'd no doubt. It just seemed to fun and challenging (at least for me) to not post up on this site. No name? If you can remember if there was ever some way this route was referred to as, let me know, and it will get named properly and justly.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 5, 2017

Now that I see where you've drawn in the route, I'm sure I've seen this TR'd a couple of times, mostly back in the 90s. Couldn't say I've ever seen it led - it's not done often!
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Jun 5, 2017

Burt, I think it did not have a name because it was a top rope variation that did not get done that often. I led it on a lark with Rob lemon. Let's just leave it Russian Gadgets since you have resurrected the climb from the dust bin . Thanks again.

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