||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
|Original: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]|
|FA: ||Cory Fleagle & Stanislav Zinkov ?? (Jan. 2013)|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||441|
|Submitted By: ||Cor on Mar 26, 2013|
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Starting the arête.
We are not sure if this one had been done before....
It has good, spicy arete climbing with some fun, wild walking left above the roof edge at the top. Good exposure.
It is at the bottom of Hawk Eagle Ridge, up on a ledge to the right of Lips Like Sugar
Walk to H.E.R. like usual, but continue up draw, like where you would be descending from the Wind Tower/Wind Ridge
. After going past the turn off for H.E.R., look for a short slab on your left to scramble up. Gain the ledge, and walk across to the start, which is where the ledge ends (actually pinches off..).
This is to the left of Bikini in the Levin Eldo book.
Start up arete by branching in from the right, getting some protection. Gain the arete out left, and punch it up to the roof area. Get more gear, and head left wild walking along the roof top edge of Lips Like Sugar
. End/lower from L.L.S.'s
bolted anchors above the roof.
Single rack to BD #3.
At the anchor. It's a little spooky stepping down...
BETA PHOTO: Wayne Crill heads up Russian Arete for its 2nd? as...
By Jay Eggleston
Aug 13, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
It's a little sketchy getting to the bolt anchor on Lips Like Sugar. You can place pro and down climb if you are leading, but following, you are above the anchor as you downclimb to lower off.
By Mark Roth
Aug 13, 2014
This route doesn't look like much from a distance, but it packs a lot of cool climbing with wild position into a short distance. The gear is pretty bad, if you blow it on the arete you will probably deck. It wouldn't be as scary if it was brushed a little.... Even clean, it would still be scary and awesome!