REI Community
Happy Hour Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are We Not Men T,TR 
Are We Not Robots T,TR 
Baby Aliens T 
Bad Sneakers TR 
Bent Faith T 
Big Spit, The T 
Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise T,TR 
Cruel Shoes TR 
Dementia T,TR 
Great Race, The T 
Grins T,TR 
Hands Off T 
I, Robot T,TR 
Last Call T,TR 
Last Laugh T,S,TR 
Left Side T 
Malign T,TR 
Nightcap T,TR 
Rush Hour T,TR 
Seein' Double TR 
Skid Row T 
Teetotaler T,S,TR 
Tipsey T,TR 
Twofers T,TR 
Twofers Bypass T,TR 
Twofers Gully T,TR 

Rush Hour 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan Hare and Scott Woodruff, 1978.
Page Views: 2,579
Submitted By: Shaun Miller on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Dan Morta attempts the crux of Rush Hour.

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route used to be a 5.10b until a key hold in the crux broke making it a 5.12a. So, essentially the route is a hard 5.9/easy 5.10 with a 5.12 move on the roof section. The route begins in a crack just to the right of a large overhanging roof. Climb the crack to the roof and traverse to the left. Here you will find a critical series of 3-4 moves to conquer the roof. There is a bolt on the roof which you may want to clip on toprope to avoid an undesirable swing (especially if you might be there for awhile). Once you conquer the roof, follow the crack to the top where you will make a zigzag to the left before reaching the anchor.


    The toprope requires a class 4-5 downclimb from the top of the wall, you'll need some gear and a sling. The top is best accessed via a hike up the left side of the crag. You can rope up the route without the downclimb, but I do not recommend it due to rope wear.

    Photos of Rush Hour Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Myke Komarnitsky at the difficult crux roof.
    Myke Komarnitsky at the difficult crux roof.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Shaun trying the same.
    Shaun trying the same.
    Rock Climbing Photo:  Shaun Miller starts up the route.
    Shaun Miller starts up the route.

    Comments on Rush Hour Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 23, 2001

    I think that .12 might be a little high for the grade on Rush Hour. My guess is that it it more like .11 b/c.
    By TBD
    Jul 31, 2004

    I would strongly disagree that this route goes at 5.11, 12 minus in my opinion. It is actually quite enjoyable lead if you angle up and right and join Dementia at the roof. A one or 2 move wonder with fun climbing above. 1.5 stars in my book.
    By Micahisaac
    From: Longmont, CO
    May 9, 2007

    Definitely .12- crux. One bolt on route (protects crux), is easy to clip from funky layback. Power up off tiny tiny holds to big finish. Rest of route gets R rating. Takes a few TCUs the rest of the way up.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 7, 2008
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

    After doing it not knowing anything about it, I guessed 11c or 11d. Call it 11+ and we're good. I doubt it was 12a, but maybe I got lucky or something. Fun moves marred by discontinuity of a line and lots of guano below the roof.
    By Sam Miller
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Oct 25, 2010
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    I do agree it was a 12 move, but somehow can't give it a 12 rating seeing as it finishes so easy. For you taller folk, did you have to use an intermediate after the left hand 3 finger shelf? If not, I can see how that makes it easier. At least with my foot smear, I def had to use that intermediate.
    By Wade
    Jun 11, 2011
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Bogus route.
    By slim
    Jun 19, 2013
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    I thought this route was ok. The start caught me off guard a bit - I didn't even look at it until I started climbing. Not hard but not exactly easy. The move over the roof felt way awkward. Good hand holds but really scrunchy feet. Probably considerably easier if you are short, as the hand movements are pretty small. Good quick after work 12a, worth doing once.

    Also, if you are doing this one with somebody who will have trouble TR'ing the roof cleanly, you will want a plan. You don't really get gear after the roof until you go way up to the right. You will need to either back clean and try to get a piece way out left above, or do some other shenanigans. Otherwise, if the 2nd falls after unclipping the bolt, it would be an unpleasant, rope-grating swing.
    By bart cubrich 1
    Jun 13, 2016
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    I think this route was actually really cool for what it's worth. It's nice to have a moderate or two at this crag. It's hard to rate a 3 move boulder problem. I did find, however, that you can place the #3 (red) BD micronut right after you do the roof mantle. There is a thin crack on the left. I wouldn't think of it as pro, but it does hold a toprope fall for a follower. I also found that the rope runs nicely for the leader if you don't place until the hand jams under the roof, and if you are average height you can clip the bolt from a perfect handjam.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About