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Running Man 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Paul Van Betten, Sal Mamusia, Mike Ward 1987
Page Views: 10,993
Submitted By: david goldstein on Apr 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (80)
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Running Man!

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


One of my favorite single-pitch climbs in the country, it is of a piece with other masculine enduro-classics such as Quarter of a Man and Mister Clean. Features slightly overhanging Red Rocks crimping. Starts with a cruxy move by the first bolt (harder if short), followed by a long stretch of 5.10 climbing with no real rests and ends with a semi-cruxy move just below the anchors.

The start of the climb is easy to find with the Swain guide. This climb is in the sun almost the entire day.


This pitch has about 10 bolts, which some of us consider insufficient for a climb of this length, difficulty and continuousness. The bolts can be easily supplemented with a few nuts in the #1-4 Rock range and a couple of cams in the narrow-to-rattly-finger range. A #2.5 Friend is handy at the start.

Photos of Running Man Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: One way to do this climb.
One way to do this climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan Montague on Running Man - January 10th, 2014.
Dan Montague on Running Man - January 10th, 2014.
Rock Climbing Photo: Doing the Running Man
Doing the Running Man
Rock Climbing Photo: Bob McGowen in 1987, shortly after this route was ...
Bob McGowen in 1987, shortly after this route was ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Roberto De La Riva on Running Man. Mar '09
Roberto De La Riva on Running Man. Mar '09
Rock Climbing Photo: Working on the Running Man onsight
Working on the Running Man onsight
Rock Climbing Photo: SteveZ on Running Man
SteveZ on Running Man
Rock Climbing Photo: Running Man.
Running Man.
Rock Climbing Photo: SteveZ on the super-classic Running Man
SteveZ on the super-classic Running Man
Rock Climbing Photo: One way to do this climb.
One way to do this climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just passed the thin crux move there is a purple C...
Just passed the thin crux move there is a purple C...
Rock Climbing Photo: Running Man shot looking east
Running Man shot looking east

Comments on Running Man Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 2, 2016
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 1, 2004

This is a very photogenic route. I used up an entire roll of film on it in 1987, shortly after the route was put up.
By 10b4me
Mar 8, 2004

indeed, one of my favorite single pitches anywhere.

does anyone else think it is sporty between bolts at the bottom?

b armstrong
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I could see it from the road and I had to go do it. One of the best!
By Ryan Triplett
Apr 20, 2006

By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 20, 2008

I watched Peter Croft solo this climb a few years back. I'm not big into soloing, but amazing to watch nonetheless.
By Bingman
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 16, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Really one of the best pitches around. Worth all the hype. The bolts are placed well for the majority of this climb, with one run-out on relatively easy terrain (between the 2nd and 3rd bolt?). It would be easy to protect this section with a nut or TCU, but if you are attempting this grade it shouldn't be a problem. I remember bringing gear but not bothering to place it because the climbing in the run-out was easy.

However, Peter Croft thought a rope was unnecessary, so I guess it's all personal preference. :)

It can also be difficult to clip the first bolt if you are short.
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Feb 26, 2009

This climb is more like a 105ft tall. A 60 Will get you down with about nothing to spare if you swing a little right. KNOT YOUR ENDS!!!
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 21, 2011

For those wondering about the new bolt that mitigates the run-out on this route, it was placed with the blessing of the FA and the local community.

Also, I didnt think this route was all that special- it was just un-ending, mediocre 5.10 climbing with a couple of interesting moves of 5.11.
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Dec 1, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This route looks a lot harder than it is. There's only one 5.11 move down low and then it's sustained crimps 5.10 forever. A lot of fun!

No need for extra gear. There's always a bolt when you need it.
Nov 19, 2013

Onsighted this route in 1997 - IIRC the guide back then called it 11d. Definitely not that hard now (despite the fact that I can't do it these days). Maybe 11b/c.

Tricky start (especially if you are short - a #2 cam will protect you before bolt #1) with a long reach from good undercling flake to small crimps / horizontals, then a delicate and technical slab crux at bolt 2 -3. After that, it's a matter of climbing efficiently on the endless 5.10 moves to the top.

Possible heartbreaker move near the end if you don't manage your pump effectively. Lots of places to semi-rest, especially the locker hand/fist jam at 1/2 height. Look around for not-very-chalked holds off the center line of the seam (especially to the left), that make some of the sequences easier.

A 60 meter rope will NOT make it to the ground. You can lower into the corridor on the right and down climb if need be.

A classic. Tied with Mr Choad's Wild Ride for best 5.11 sport pitch in RR.
By Hyrum j. C
From: St george, ut
Jan 21, 2016
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Dont know why this is listed as trad. It is bolted all the way up and not even run out. One of the best lines anywhere. I loved every second on this climb!
By Hyrum j. C
From: St george, ut
Jan 23, 2016
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

I found something at the bottom of this climb yesterday. 801 663 4879 is my number. If its yours shoot me a text and i can ship it out to you or if you are going through st george you can pick it up.
By zach cook
From: Boise, ID
Feb 2, 2016

No need for supplemental gear on this one...I was told that the FA party (Paul) did this solely on gear, exciting! 11 bolts total from what I remember. This thing climbs super well, nice edges all the way with the the hardest moves in the first 20'. Do this route if your in the quarry!