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Ragged Mountain
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Runnin' Ragged 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 208
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Aug 18, 2016

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Runnin' Ragged at Ragged Mountain, High Peaks,...

Description 

One of the best 5.11 pitches around. It ascends a face, seam, and crack just left of an exposed arete, making for exposed climbing. Much harder for short people.

The route dries quickly except for 1 tiny smear of moisture at the base of the seam, which is, unfortunately, a key foothold. Not to worry, as the 5.8 to the left can always be climbed (even when wet); from that anchor, scramble right to this fixed anchor.

Go up the short crack and mantel onto a ledge. Climb the face past 2 bolts to a horizontal below a seam. Follow the seam through an overhanging wave (crux, bolt) to a bomber jam, then follow this excellent crack for 60' to a fixed anchor.

Location 

Walk right along the base of the cliff to an open area with several large submerged boulders. There is a beautiful wide crack in a left-facing corner that leads to a triangular roof 50' up. Begin 4' right of the corner at a short crack.

Protection 

Single set of nuts and cams to 3". Double up on purple Camalot. No micro cams required.


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By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Aug 23, 2016

If you're short, it really helps to pre-place a draw at the crux to make the clipping easier.

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