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YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Rick Hahn, Jack Harvey
Page Views: 1,030
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Sep 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset MORE INFO >>>


The arch that makes up the first half of Runamuck is one of the more recognizable features on the right side of the Shield. To find the start of the route, look for an hourglass shaped flake that leans against the base of the wall beneath the arch. Climb the unprotected face for about 25 feet to the beginning of the arch (there is a good medium stopper placement here), and the follow it to the right (protects well with a variety of cams up to a #1 Camalot). As you traverse to the right you will past a couple of bolts on the face below you. At the end of the arch, place your last piece of pro for a while and turn the corner up into a small, shallow dihedral. Climb to a headwall with a couple of cracks running through it. There are a couple places here for small, spotty stopper placements that may or may not hold a fall, but the climbing is fairly positive to the anchor ledge. You can either rap from anchors along the ledge, or scramble up and over the top. Fun, thought provoking climb with a healthy runnout after the arch.


Standard trad rack with cams up to a #1 Camalot. Micro-stoppers and a #3 Camalot will also come in handy.

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By Superclimber
Feb 14, 2014

The original name given this route by the first ascentionists was Farewell to Arms. But I guess by the time the guide books were written the name was lost to history.
By Tommy G.
From: Killeen, Texas
Sep 15, 2014

Great line along the arch! It was a bit wet for a few feet towards the end of the arch, but it rained the previous day.

I got in one questionable piece (small offset) in the "dihedral" between the arch and the headwall, but would not have wanted to fall on it. When in doubt...
By mattm
From: TX
Oct 11, 2016
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X

Fantastic route - worth the effort so long as you're comfortable with the runout to the top. I'd give it a 5.7+ (5.5 X) rating. The hardest moves are the old school 5.7+ variety along the arch but are well protected with gear. The 40' runout in the groove is easier climbing but very much X-rated as you near the top of the groove. I looked pretty thoroughly behind the flake for a placement and while you might be able to get something to go in, I'd give any piece placed in there ZERO change of holding a fall. It's shallow, broken oatmeal granite in there. Get in good gear under the lip and go.

If you want to enjoy the gear but not the runout, you can get 2/3rds of the way across and then turn the lip early to link up with the 2 bolts left of Runamuck (Finsih of More Proks)

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