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Tapeworm, The 

Run Amok 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A3 R

   
Type:  Aid, Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A3 R [details]
FA: Jim Beyer (solo) 1979
Page Views: 1,133
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Nov 13, 2001

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Steep! Bill Roberts, 1992, jumaring to pitch 4, Ru...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is an awesome route that starts in the obvious, steep dihedral system to the right of the Tapeworm. I soloed this route in three days in the fall of 1998. This is a good introduction to some of the harder routes in the Fishers.

P1- This pitch used to be harder, but bolts have been added by someone who can't respect other peoples routes. Climb up the bolts/drilled angles to a ledge. (5.6 A1)

P2- Climb up the steep thin crack over a small roof leading to the dihedral. There are a few bolts and 1/4" holes on this pitch. (A3+)

P3- Nail up the right facing dihedral over some bulges to another hanging belay. (A3+)

P4- Thin nailing leads to some tricky nailing through a rotten band. A short bolt ladder leads to a small pendulum left into a good crack in a corner and another hanging belay. (A3)

P5- Climb A1 which progressively gets harder to a wide crack and then to a small stance. (A2+)

P6- Climb up and right up a muddy crack passing a few bolts to a small ledge. (A3)

P7- Climb a wide crack (bongs useful here) to a 5.8 chimney with three bolts to a belay in an alcove. (5.8 A2+)

P8- Climb a wide (5") right facing corner at 5.9 offwidth with a few moves of aid to a belay at the start of a bolt ladder. (5.9 A2+)

P9- Climb a bolt ladder (which is part of the last pitch of the North Chimney route) to the summit.

Descent- Rappel Phantom Spirit on the opposite side of the tower.

Protection 

3-4 sets of cams from smallest to #3 camalots. 2 sets of bigger cams. 2-3 sets of stoppers. 20 KB's, 10-15 LA's, 8 baby angles, and 4-5 each angles to 2 inch. Some hooks.


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By Kikut
Dec 22, 2015

Repeated in August 2015

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