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Avalauncher TR 
Batshit Crack T,TR 
Beginner's T,TR 
Crap On T,TR 
Flare T,TR 
Half Moons (aka Clockwork) T,TR 
Hard Crack T,TR 
Have a Nice Day Yucca T,TR 
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) T,TR 
Phone Booth T,TR 
Rumsey's Lead T,TR 
Sharon's Lead T,TR 
Sharon's Sandbag T,TR 
Thumb Action T,TR 
Twin Cracks T,TR 
Unnamed T,TR 

Rumsey's Lead 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Roger Rumsey
Page Views: 114
Submitted By: George Perkins on Aug 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Another 10 worth climbing at the NNP.

Get into the overhanging hand crack, followed by a good rest. Head up an unprotected section over the bulge on slopers directly above; or, better yet, step left, make a weird move back right onto a ramp; (or begin the entire climb as for Batshit Crack and traverse left above this- variation 10 in photo). Enter a shallow dihedral with a thin crack. This has enough small gear placements to keep it safe. When you reach the finger crack, you're through the crux.

Location 

This climb is about 10' left of Batshit Crack.

Protection 

Nuts and cams to 3".
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top.


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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 21, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A #000 C3 protects the awkward undercling bulge move from the left pretty well. It's still at your feet when you're pulling over it but the fall would be pretty clean I think.

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