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North (Left) Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Full Rubber Mission S 
Glenda S 
Grendel S 
Jabberwocky S 
Once Upon a Time S 
Rumplestiltskin S 
Straight On Til Morning S 
Technowitch S 
Tinkerbell's Nightmare S 
White Witch S 

Rumplestiltskin 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bertrand Gramont & Don Goodhew 5/88, Direct Start: Porter Jarrard
Page Views: 4,460
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jul 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
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Meghan at the crux of Rumplestiltskin

Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another classic tower endurance climb. Starts in a small dihedral through entertaining and easier than thy look moves. Continue up with big pulls between big pockets to a large rest. Figure out how to snag a rest here (I've heard of people sitting on the ledge), or if the pump clock is ticking start the sprint up the final headwall. Continue on steep rock for the next three bolts then enjoy the easier ground to the anchors.

Location 

Look for the small dihedral just right of "Once Upon a Time". Last climb on the starting ledge for "Once Upon a Time" and "Grendel". Between "Once Upon A Time" & "White Witch".

Protection 

9 Bolts + Anchors, Stickclip so you don't fall of the ledge.


Photos of Rumplestiltskin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rumplestiltskin action. July 2012.
Rumplestiltskin action. July 2012.
Rock Climbing Photo: Matthew NM nearing the end of the steep bit and th...
Matthew NM nearing the end of the steep bit and th...
Rock Climbing Photo: pulling the crux moves of  Rumplestiltskin
pulling the crux moves of Rumplestiltskin
Rock Climbing Photo: Matthew NM moving up into the resting corner on Ru...
Matthew NM moving up into the resting corner on Ru...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower moves
Lower moves
Rock Climbing Photo: Meghan's "life preserver rest"
Meghan's "life preserver rest"
Rock Climbing Photo: Meghan on  Rumplestiltskin
Meghan on Rumplestiltskin
Rock Climbing Photo: Mid-section
Mid-section
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the climbs 1/2 way point: on RP
Nearing the climbs 1/2 way point: on RP
Rock Climbing Photo: Matthew NM chucking another lap.
Matthew NM chucking another lap.

Comments on Rumplestiltskin Add Comment
Show which comments
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Apr 27, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The third bolt is still missing on Rumple, but you can clip a bolt on the next route to the right at about the same height. Of course doing so is not ideal, but if you fall moving through the next section to the 4th bolt you at least won't deck.
Best.
By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
May 1, 2011

The hanger is still missing as of the last day of April, 2011. Who would remove it/have it fall off/break and not fix it?
By DisturbingThePeace
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Sep 12, 2011

As of Sept 2011, the missing bolt has been replaced.
By Patrick Vernon
From: Estes Park, CO
Apr 7, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Tried to rest by sitting on the midway ledge like my partner and wound up wasting more energy than it was worth. Super fun route!
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Sep 26, 2016

Retro-bolted the route, removing the scary original 1988 SMC hangers and 5/16" hardware with burly 1/2" Rawl anchors and Fixe hangers. Enjoy!