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Panther Gorge
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All Battered Boyfriends T 
All Ryled Up T 
All Things Holy T 
Belshazzar's Fate T 
Cat on a Wet Tin Roof T 
Climb After Slime T 
CrazyDog's Halo T 
Eye for an Eye T 
For Whom the Lichen Tolls T 
Galaxy of Tears T 
Haycrack T 
Kitten's Got Claws T 
Less Than Zero PG  T,TR 
Marcy’s Great Chimney (aka Empty Tomb)  T 
Margin Slide T 
One for the Boys T 
Panther's Fang T 
Pioneer Anomaly T 
Predatory Instincts T 
Pride, The T 
Promised Land T 
Psalm 23 T 
Ranger on the Rock T 
Revelations T 
Rumours of War T 
Slacker Cracker T 
Tail of Redemption T 
Watery Grave TR 
Windjammer T 
Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald T 
You Moss be Kidding Me! T 

Rumours of War 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 405'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Hunter Lombardi, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie 2015 July 11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 187
Submitted By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Jul 12, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Route overlay, mosaic inset photos and location on...

Description 

This is the first route in a newly documented climbing area of the gorge, the Huge Scoop, a giant rectangular depression located south of the Agharta Wall (about 15 minute bushwhack).

Route ascends a 200' long technical slab to the obvious crack in the center of the cliff and follows it until its end. This deceptively stout climb is a must-do in Panther Gorge though you’ll want to make sure it hasn’t rained for several days beforehand. Slab climbing, vertical handcracks, offwidths and a chimney all with a few awkward moves boost your heart rate!

Recommended to use double ropes for rappel to gully exit otherwise secure rappel options are poor.

P1 5.5 - 180’
Climb slab to grassy ledge below central crack (largest on
the face).

P2 Crux 5.9 - 75’
Climb crack to offwidth then runout slab and belay from grassy ledge.

P3 5.7 - 150’
Continue following crack to offwidth chimney. Follow left facing corner to vertical crack. Climb and follow slab to top.

VIDEO
Shows only P1 and P2.

Location 

Bushwhack about 5 minutes south (climber's left) of the Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald. Start left of the left facing corner that dissects the slab.

Protection 

The route eats gear up to 4". Runout slab at top of P2.


Photos of Rumours of War Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hunter Lombardi below P2 during the FA.
Hunter Lombardi below P2 during the FA.

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