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Rule the World 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Clay Watson, Dallen Ward
New Route: Yes
Season: supper, fall
Page Views: 79
Submitted By: tenesmus on Oct 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Adam W

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Not a friction climb, this has actually has holds on it. This climbs the arete to the right of Mrs Garrett, using edges, jugs and rails on both sides. I like long moves on big holds.

The face directly in the bolt line without the arete feels like a completely different climb and is worth doing even if it is a little contrived. Getting into the dihedral and onto the face is one crux and the other is up on that face. It is letter grade harder and you want to preclip the second bolt on that arete as its a more difficult clip and you'll deck if you blow it.


Right of Mrs Garrett.


Use the fixed pins and bolts leading to the Mrs Garrett dihedral. Then clip bolts (I think 11-12 total?) on the right side of the arete placed where the rock was the best.

Photos of Rule the World Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pfeifferhorn in the background
Pfeifferhorn in the background
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam W on the second ascent of To Rule the World.
Adam W on the second ascent of To Rule the World.

Comments on Rule the World Add Comment
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By tenesmus
Oct 15, 2008

The name is the last line of that stupid theme song from the TV series. A song Luke put in my head so I couldn't get it out.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Sep 10, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Seriously good route. A must-do in this area.

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