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Ruination 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: (TR) Chris Miller and Lisa Guindon, September 2014, FL: Chris Owen and Chris Miller, September 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 746
Submitted By: C Miller on Sep 28, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Ruination (5.9), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Description 

Big positive holds lead up to a thin and fingery crux past the 3rd bolt and then it's fairly easy but still interesting in the middle portion of the route, up an exposed arete and over some highly featured bulges, to a second crux near the top as you power out an undercut bulge utilizing a flower-pot type hold.

A fun moderate that's enjoyable on it's own or as a warm-up for the more difficult routes on the wall.

Location 

Starts ten feet left of Old Guardian.

Protection 

10 bolts, chain anchors


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By C Miller
Administrator
From: CA
Sep 28, 2014

The first bolt on this route can be pre-clipped by leaning across from an adjacent boulder.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Sep 29, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Long and fun with an intricate start. First lead was an onsight.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jul 14, 2017

Fun enough, long and worth doing. 3 stars, that's a stretch. Great bolt placements but it wonders a bit and pulls meanders through some boulders in the sky. If you weren't paying attention you'd stop before the summit and use the neighboring route (climbers right) anchor which is at an obvious stance. Which, I wouldn't necessarily recommend using as the move from that ledge is quite fun.

Question Fellas... near the top, say 3 bolts from the anchor you're passing one of those attached bulge/boulders which has an old SMC hanger and bolt. It is not consistent with the rest of the route or immediate neighbors. Shoebox find? It's solid enough but not of the same vintage.

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