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Rue Morgue Avenue 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 195'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Josh Smith, Matt Balkey, George Perkins
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 161
Submitted By: Josh Smith on Oct 31, 2013

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Description 

Rue Morgue Avenue is a complex route. P1 95ft, 5.11. P2 is 110ft going to the left up the big chimney, 5.11. P2a is 110 ft going right up the big chimney from the belay (5.12ish around the obvious roof). P1. Start up the finger crack that splits the face directly below the huge roof. When finger crack ends, climb blocky steep thin cracks to the large ledge—look for a pin to the right of the dihedral about 80 feet up. The rock gets better as the climb goes along. P2. Climb the hand crack through the roof just left of the belay, aiming for the left side of the roof. Climb fat hands to the roof, traverse left on good holds; exit up to an easy groove. P2a. Step right, climb the finger crack to the OW to the roof. Hard moves past the roof, clip a pin, jugs to fingers to hands.

Location 

The roof is pretty easy to spot. It's huge, about two hundred feet up from the end of the cliff.

Protection 

P1: 2-3 each from 0-#1. Set nuts; RPs useful.
P2: 2# 1s, 3 #2s, 3-4 #3s, a few #0.5 to #0.75 cams can protect the roof traverse.
P2a: Doubles fingers to #3, 1-#5 for the OW. A purple TCU can protect before the pin.


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