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Rudra pinnacle - West Arete T 

Rudra pinnacle - West Arete 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Kishor Chavan, Kaivalya Varma
Season: Winter season: November through February
Page Views: 32
Submitted By: Rohan R Rao on Jun 8, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: West arete of Rudra pinnacle from the base of the ...

Description 

Route: 500+ feet of four pitch face/arete climbing with long winding sections and traverses.

First pitch goes at 5.7
Second pitch goes at 5.5
Third pitch goes at 5.9
Fourth pitch is mix of easy fifth class mixed with some scree walks and scrambles

Rock quality: Poor in the first pitch, good in second and third pitches, scree scrambles in fourth pitch

Pitch one - 140 feet (Base to intermediate unstable ledge)

A gradual start of 15 feet - 3rd class scramble before the face steepens to vertical. When confronted with a 5.10a move over the bulge, traverse right for an easier 5.7 alternative.

The route is quite straight forward from here and goes through a distinct open book feature (obtuse dihedral corner). There is not much chance to protect anything till this open book, which nicely gobbles up BD #2 cams. Before the open book feature however, one can only find some poor micro cam placements that offers something, but nothing trustworthy.

Above the open book feature a roof blocks your way. Bypass it from the right to gain access to first ledge. No chance of building a gear anchor. Hammer in a peg in the loose scree. This is very unstable ledge, so hammer very carefully. Get your second up and and try to move quickly of this ledge!

Pitch 2 - 80 feet (Unstable first ledge to big second ledge)

The second pitch is a good easy climb with ample protection possibilities. This pitch gobbles up anything from Bd #.75 to #2 and the climb itself is straight forward and mellow. The rock is much firmer than the first pitch and the route follows straight line till the cactus thickets overhead. The last couple of moves before pulling over the ledge are fun 5.7 moves, albeit over some scree.

Second ledge is a big ledge and can accommodate 50 people easily. There is a nice crack that runs vertically along the wall. This crack easts up #1, #2 and #3 BD cams easily and offers a bomber anchor - in much contrast to the first ledge. There is also an old peg (placed by the first ascent Bhramanti team back in 2011) that can be used for the wind up during the descent.

Pitch 3 - 80 feet (Big second ledge to the big third ledge via the traverse)

This is the money pitch of the climb. Right off the second ledge, the vertical crack that I used for building the anchor runs straight up for 15 feet before merging onto a horizontal ramp.

Above this point is an overhang devoid of any holds. To bypass this, do a long traverse to the left for about 25 feet to the left over an easy class 4 but exposed terrain. Then traverse back to the right till the traverse is blocked by a big bulging rock. Do an exposed and insecure 5.9 move over the bulge (crux of the climb) to join the straight route on the face above the overhang. This traverse moves lead to serious rope drag. Move over to a small ledge and build a gear anchor (BD #.75 #2 and #3).

Pitch 4 (Third ledge to final pyramid)
The route from the third ledge winds to the left and over an easy, but loose 5th class. After a short section of around 50 feet, I came across a long scree slope with gradual gradient. Although there is nothing dramatic about this pitch, one thing to note is that it is impossible to communicate with your belayer once you pull over to the scree slopes.

From here it is a 15 minute scramble of the remaining 75 feet over easy but loose sections to reach the summit.

Descent
The descent is by rapping off along the climb line. We left one peg near the summit for rapping off from the summit till the tree at the base of the final pyramid.If you have two 100 meter rope coils, you can rap off from the tree just below the final pyramid till the second ledge. From second ledge you can rap off using the peg left by the first ascent team in 2011. However, while rapping off, please be sure to check the condition of the tree and the pegs. We used them, but it may not be in the best condition down the line. Be safe and carry extra pegs for the descent.

Location 

Pahine village, near Tryambakeshwar.
Just as you look towards the huge Anjaneri massif towering over the Pahine village, you cannot miss to see this prominent pinnacle jutting out from the ridge that running west from the Anjaneri massif. This is the Rudra pinnacle. The approach from the Pahine village to the base of the pinnacle is a good 75 minute hike.

Protection 

Cams, nuts and pegs (no bolts and pitons)
Doubles of BD #.75 to #3 (For pitches two, three and four)
Single set of Metolius TCU #0 and #1 or BD X4 # 1 and #2 (For first pitch)
Single set of micro nuts BD #1, #2 and #3
4 pegs - For the anchor on first ledge and descent


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