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Rude Bushman 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alard Hüfner 1998
Page Views: 58
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Jul 22, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Rude Bushman- 11d.

Description 

A very fun route with a pump crux getting over the roof at the top. Watch out for the huge loose block near the anchors.

Pull over a roof and do a big lockoff for good holds. Move right along jugs, pull into the corner, and get a no hands rest. Keep following the crack/corner, then cut left and keep it together for the pumpy traverse under the roof. A few thuggy moves on decent holds gets you over the roof. Avoid the temptation to use the jugs on the massive loose block and use small crimps to make your way to the chains.

Would be a nicer route if someone removed that loose block. Otherwise, a very enjoyable outing.

Be sure to look for the bushman paintings in the cave about 100 feet right of the route. Very faint but still amazing.

Location 

Two routes right of Lotter's Desire.

Protection 

Bolts and a two bolt anchor.


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