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Rude Boys 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: FA - Alan Watts 1985, FFA Jean Baptiste Tribout 10/86
Season: a
Page Views: 9,579
Submitted By: Fred Gomez on Mar 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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The classic "Rose Move" on Rude Boys.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Approach the first bolt through some easy moves between good holds. Immediately after the first bolt the technical crux (V5/6) begins with some powerful reaches between small edges. Shake out at the second bolt if you wish, then with your photographer strategically placed, execute the photogenic "rose move." The dynamic redpoint crux (V4) awaits you at a bulge just after the third bolt. Several sequences will work through this section off the hang, but take care to find the best sequence, as the moves feel significantly harder when linking from the ground.

Once you reach the fourth bolt the hard climbing is over. Your hands are good but the lack of low feet makes it hard to rest here. The next few moves moving right to the mini dihedral are not trivial. The rest of the climb is more of a mental challenge than anything else. The finishing 5.11 slab is runout and features interesting moves between slopers, pinches and pockets. This slab is much more complex and challenging than the adjacent Dreamin' slab.

Location 

This route is just left of Dreamin' on the Prophet wall.

Protection 

Quickdraws and maybe a few shoulder-length slings or double-draws to manage the rope drag. There is a horizontal pod that takes gear between the last bolt & the anchor. A nut has been fixed in this pod for many years, but you might want to have some gear with you in case its missing.

Bolted Anchors.


Photos of Rude Boys Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian prepping for the upper section.
Brian prepping for the upper section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ian Caldwell dances up Rude Boys.
Ian Caldwell dances up Rude Boys.

Comments on Rude Boys Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 12, 2006

I spent some time climbing on, and falling off of this route. The thin technical crux of the route comes at the first bolt (V5 or 6). After that, better holds traverse right to the second crux, passing the third bolt (V4) with some lunges.

On my first attempt at the route, I did all the moves on the lower section and said to my belayer: "Yeah, I'll just run up the final slab." I proceded to get completely destroyed. I found myself fifteen feet run out, staring at the next bolt with no way to clip it. Then it started raining. After a desperation lunge to a sloper, my feet peeled and I was off...I took a 25 footer and ended up at the first bolt. The moral: do not underestimate the slab.
By Philip Scoles
From: bum fuck, Oregon
Nov 14, 2006

Ok, thanks much. I got the beta from Ian and I think I will be able to do it before this up-coming summer.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Feb 28, 2013

The first onsight of Rude Boys was by Francois Lombard in 1993.
By tom donnelly
From: san diego
Aug 17, 2014

I watched Chris Knuth climbed it years ago, a couple days before he did To Bolt.
He wasn't expecting to get the rose move, but after he did, he decided to keep going to the top, despite having only about one more draw for the remaining bolts. He had one old biner used to carry a toothbrush, then skipped at least one bolt. Getting to the top, he put his leg through the fixed sling there, untied, and lowered down.
By Alan Collins
From: Bend, OR
Feb 8, 2017
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R

Rude Boys recently got retro-bolted with glue in! All the bolts are almost in the same spots excepts the 4th and maybe the 5th. They got moved to reduce rope drag but still protect the same.
By Mason Pitchel
Mar 16, 2017

Hey Alan, I think you took some photos of me on rude boys towards the beginning of May. Any chance you could post them or send them my way?
By Jesse Firestone
May 1, 2017

If the opening boulder problem is V5 then I must not have worn the right spandex. First of all if it was an isolated boulder problem, even a guidebook author with the brain cells of your average Mississippi Trump voter would give it -1 stars, decline to grade it and ban its first ascensionist from future additions. At Smith Rock, land of "oh, you'll do it fast since you're a boulderer" I'd say its about V7 depending on how much the smell of glue offends your delicate sensibilities.

For some reason gear was only fixed until the first draw on the slab. For a month or so I've had my 5 draws on the last 3 bolts and anchors, but I've now removed them. So be aware that the slab isn't fixed if you opt to get on it.

Great route.

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