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Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3 Strikes You're Out T 
Air Swedin T 
Battle of the Bulge T 
Big Baby, The T 
Black Corner T 
Bloombagged Again T 
Cal and Andy's Route T 
Cave Route T 
Christmas Tree T 
Crack Attack T 
Digital Readout T 
Disco Machine Gun T 
Dogs in Space T 
Down in Albion T 
Elbow Vices T 
Fat Boy Slim T 
Hole in the Wall T 
Jagged Wedge, The T 
Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout T 
Last Battle, The T 
Like a Prayer  T 
Mayes, The T 
Moon Also Rises, The T 
Mystery Machine, The T 
Our Piece of Real Estate T 
Pigs In Space T 
Quarter of a Man T 
Railroad Tracks T 
Ruby's Cafe T 
Ruins Crack T 
Seppuku Flake T 
Swedin-Ringle T 
Think Pink T 
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 
Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 
Unnamed RF hands to tips T 
Warm-up T 

Ruby's Cafe 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Lisa Gnade
Page Views: 18,112
Submitted By: m-earle on Mar 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Rich pullin out of the switching corners crux

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A thin start leads to changing corners, which puts you under an intimidating roof. A series of badass moves sets you up for thin laybacking to the anchors. Very sustained!

Location 

This incredible line lies inbetween "The Last Battle," and Digital Readout.

Protection 

6 or so yellow Aliens, a few green.


Photos of Ruby's Cafe Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber Brette Harrington hangs on a finger jam wh...
Climber Brette Harrington hangs on a finger jam wh...
Rock Climbing Photo: A most elegant line.
A most elegant line.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ruby's Cafe
Ruby's Cafe
Rock Climbing Photo: Making the final moves after leaving the knee-bar.
Making the final moves after leaving the knee-bar.
Rock Climbing Photo: Daunting...
Daunting...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Riley entering the crux corner switch
Ben Riley entering the crux corner switch

Comments on Ruby's Cafe Add Comment
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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Apr 11, 2007

For those of you who know (and hopefully love) the colorful desert hermit/IC climber extraordinaire Alf Randell, or "Alf", you will appreciate this vignette:

Apparently, Alf had done this climb in the dark past with stoppers and tri-cams. Think 1970s. Think bad-ass. And think of my friend, Herb Crimp, a burly climber in his own right, but a modern child weaned on SLCDs and sticky rubber. Touting the more illustrious ascent, Alf guilt-tripped Herb into leading this route. Herb flailed, but flailed respectively, eventually gaining the anchors. Upon lowering, Herb complained, "just because Alf leads something in 1975 with stoppers and tri-cams doesn't mean I have to lead it."

Wise words. You had to be there.
By alf
Jan 8, 2009

I first tried rubies when friend 1-4 with no half sizes were available. I took one fall at the crux during my lead attempt, and top-roped it with no trouble [around 1980]. I am pleased by the solid grains of truth to be had from the comments i have read here. Thank you all for your fairness and kindness!
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Mar 31, 2010

what a sweet route! I aided the line to put up a toprope and give it a go....barely missed the upper crux my first go! Much more managable than i imagined it would be, and so much fun locking in the knee-bar up high! A classic for sure.

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