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Ruby Slippers 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby
Page Views: 2,194
Submitted By: Daniel Cohn on Jun 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
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BETA PHOTO: Ruby Slippers. Start under the V shaped notch, fol...


The crux is near the bottom. It is a great sequence with interesting feet. Pass through to easier climbing above. If the route was a little more sustained at the grade, it would probably get three stars. Depending on your sequence, the crux will feel pretty hard or not so bad.


The route just left of the u-shaped tree. There is a distinctive curved seam near the bottom.


bolts + anchors

Photos of Ruby Slippers Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Melinda Coy
Photo by Melinda Coy
Rock Climbing Photo: The low crux of Ruby Slippers. I am about to be re...
The low crux of Ruby Slippers. I am about to be re...

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By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jun 11, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I think this route has an 11a sequence that I did not figure out. Somehow you can go left at the start rather than going right or something like that. Took me forever to get it going right.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 20, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

i think if the crux were halfway up the route it would be solid 5.11 like it says in SQ2 but since it's right at the bottom and you're not pumped yet methinks it's not quite so hard. i can't onsight 5.11.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 29, 2009

That is how things get sandbagged. "I can't lead..." so it must only be this hard. Maybe you are getting better. Or maybe it is easier. A letter here or there, who cares.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
May 18, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Lol, Jon says he can't onsight 11b a couple of months before sending 12 b/c.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jun 1, 2015
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Attentive belayers on this one. You could definitely hit the deck if your belayer has about a foot of extra slack out.

I've watched people come pretty close to the ground after falling with their feet a good 4 feet below where their feet would be on the last hard moves.

Even if you don't deck, the hard catch that will be almost obligatory to keep you off the ground probably won't be too fun either.

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