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Auntie M T 
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Ruby Shoes 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dave Staheli
Page Views: 1,101
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Jul 1, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Adrienne Kentner following P2 of Ruby Shoes 5.7

Description 

A fun and easy route just uphill and left around the corner from Toto (5.10). Follows the shallow right-facing dihedral system starting in an area of white colored rock. An obvious 2' square roof can be seen just to the left of the line at about the 100' mark, and is a good visual for locating the climb. Two short pitches or can be linked into one full 60M pitch. Mostly easy 5th class with a few moves of 5.6-5.7. Bolted rap anchors exist on both P1 and P2. An optional 40' third pitch (4th class vegetation climbing) allows for linking this into the upper 3 pitches of Toto.

Protection 

A few lead bolts (5/16") plus a single rack to 3" should be plenty for this route. Rappel with a single rope from atop P2, or do the optional third pitch and walkoff, or rappel Toto.

As of July 5th, 2014. The first anchor on this was replaced with a new ASCA anchor.


Photos of Ruby Shoes Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ruby Shoes
BETA PHOTO: Ruby Shoes
Rock Climbing Photo: Solid anchors at the top of P3.  These are on the ...
BETA PHOTO: Solid anchors at the top of P3. These are on the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay station at P2
BETA PHOTO: Belay station at P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Marginal ;-) Middle of P1 if memory serves correct...
BETA PHOTO: Marginal ;-) Middle of P1 if memory serves correct...

Comments on Ruby Shoes Add Comment
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By L. Von Dommheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jun 9, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

From the second anchor on this you can just make it to the anchor below the fourth pitch on toto without too much rope drag if you have a 70m rope.
By L. Von Dommheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jun 22, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Someone has been aggressively "cleaning" routes on the diamond, some of these cleaning jobs have been either half assed which is actually making the rest of the climb dirty and less enjoyable, while others have had the moss ripped off loosing some serious choss, please clean with care.
By Kevin Downie
Jul 21, 2015

2nd pitch is a lot of fun and well worth the climb.
By Chris Walden
From: Soldotna, Alaska
Jul 1, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a really fun route. Ruby Shoes is a good learning to lead type of route with varied climbing, solid placements, good anchors and a possible walk-off descent.

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