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d. Strictly - Shockley's
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Ruby Saturday Direct T 
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Ruby Saturday Direct 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pitch 1, Dick Williams, Marisa Clickner. Pitch 2, Jim McCarthy, Ants Leemets
Page Views: 1,730
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 21, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Beta photo. I do not recommend putting the nut sho...

Description 

1. Climb to a small ledge. Move up until you can grab a small, left facing flake (crux) that is at the base of a short, left facing corner. Belay about 30-40 feet higher at a decent stance. There are some obvious, right-facing flakes immediately above this point. 5.10a, 80 feet.

2. Go up and left from the belay, trend back right a bit (you should be more or less directly above your belayer at that point), and blast over a bulge on good holds (crux). Move up and left to a fixed pin, climb past that (second crux), then head slightly right to the GT ledge. 5.9+, 90 feet.



Traverse to climbers' right and descend via the bolted line next to Three Pines.

Location 

About 30 or 40 feet left of the start of Three Pines; look for a clean section of rock and vertical seam a short distance off the deck.

Protection 

Standard 'Gunks rack


Photos of Ruby Saturday Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pat on the pitch 2 overhangs
Pat on the pitch 2 overhangs

Comments on Ruby Saturday Direct Add Comment
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By chewtoynj
Nov 7, 2011

It's a fun route. The second pitch climbing was even more fun than the first pitch climbing. Just a few bigger moves on some great overhanging holds.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Apr 23, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

10a? Funny that this and neighboring Nemesis get the same grade in grey Dick. Thought the crux of this climb was an easy stand up on great feet with good protection.
By Eugene Kwan
Jun 3, 2014

Agreed. Easier than Nemesis. But a great climb nonetheless! Did some unknown third pitch at the top that was poorly protected, hard for "5.8," and fun. Not really sure what it was, but it started by traversing right and then back left with some overhangs.
By Michael Schneider
Jun 25, 2014

Another one of my "variations" that has a full line that crosses the others, much closer to 5.10 than .9, gear where you need it.
By Jon Po
From: Mahwah, NJ
Apr 9, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I followed the first pitch yesterday. It seemed very easy for the grade. The gear was good enough. The crux left facing flake seems barely attached.
By Logan Schiff
From: Brooklyn, NY
Mar 7, 2017

Agree that P1 feels easy for the grade, though perhaps height dependent? My concern is the pro. It's either below your feet when you make the step up or you are putting gear behind the barely there flake. That being said as soon as you make the move you grab a good hold and can get in really good gear. Also definitely seems like the flake will rip off at some point...

P2 is far better IMO. Pumpy exposed 5.9 with a traverse and bulge. I think linking this with pitches 1 and 3 of Anguish would make for a classic.

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