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Ruby Peak

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Billy from the Hills T 
Boom Town T 
Daphne T 
Don't Take Your Love to Town (Center Route) T 
East Arete T 
Gendarmes, The T 
Left East Arete T 
Pteradon T 
Shine On You Crazy Diamond T 
Wide Sargasso Sea T 

Ruby Peak Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 13,188'
Location: 37.41412, -118.78136 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,034
Administrators: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John Stackfleth on Mar 28, 2014
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Ruby Lake at sunset. Photo by Johnny K


East facing wall nestled above Rock Creek canyon. Rock is Alpine granite ranging from exfoliating chossy gnar, to fantastic granite. Routes range from 3rd class to 5.11+. Beautiful setting worth seeing even if only going for a hike.

Getting There 

From Highway 395 at Toms Place(located between mammoth lakes and Bishop just at the summit of the Sherwin grade) turn on to Rock Creek rd. Take this to its end at Mosquito Flats trail head. Head up the trail to the Mono Pass trail towards ruby lake. The turn will be on your right hand side after about ten minutes or so of brisk walking. After some switch backing and good elevation gain you will reach ruby lake. Keep in mind the main hiking trail continues to wrap up and around to the north of the lake. Instead, head cross country towards Ruby lake and Skirt the North Shore which will be to your right as you look at the lake. Be prepared for meandering a faint climbers trail through wet terrain, boulders, and annoying bushes. At this point the Ruby Wall will be apparent. When you have about reached the other side of the lake head up a decent slope and unstable ground. After some good scrambling and an accelerated heart rate you should be face to face with a very impressive alpine wall. The Hike can be done in 1.5 to 2hrs with a light rack and a very fast pace. Add at least 1 to 2 hrs if traveling heavy or if you are not acclimatized.

Climbing Season

Weather station 16.2 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Ruby Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: The Left East Arete. Photo credit: Kovarpa/Summitp...

Left East Arete 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  California : High Sierra : ... : Ruby Peak
There is quite a bit of confusion regarding routes on the Ruby Wall - hopefully this sorts things out a little bit. When looking at the Ruby Wall from Ruby Lake, the Left East Arete is the prominent, narrowing rib of rock ~100yds left of the main Ruby Wall. This same line is mislabeled as the East Arete (Rowell/Wilson 84) in many guidebooks. The East Arete blends right into the more obvious Left East Arete when viewed from the Ruby Wall area - and some photo overlays of the route (AAJ, for examp...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Ruby Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Ruby Cirque as seen from Ruby Lake
The Ruby Cirque as seen from Ruby Lake
Rock Climbing Photo: Ruby Wall at sunrise.
Ruby Wall at sunrise.
Rock Climbing Photo: left side of the wall.
BETA PHOTO: left side of the wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: Left side
BETA PHOTO: Left side
Rock Climbing Photo: Broader photo
BETA PHOTO: Broader photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Overall topo
BETA PHOTO: Overall topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lots of rock here. Does anyone know of routes on t...
Lots of rock here. Does anyone know of routes on t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ruby Wall of Ruby Peak: (1) East Corner (LeMay-Car...
BETA PHOTO: Ruby Wall of Ruby Peak: (1) East Corner (LeMay-Car...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Ruby Wall
The Ruby Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Ruby Peak/Wall
BETA PHOTO: Ruby Peak/Wall

Comments on Ruby Peak Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sam Cannon
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 19, 2014
Is there a guidebook that covers the area? Or is this being actively developed?
By C Miller
From: CA
Jun 19, 2014
There is coverage of this area in R. J. Secor's book -
By John Stackfleth
Jul 12, 2014
The high sierra guide by Moynier includes the ruby wall. However the topos are seriously lacking. The area is not being seriously established either. Definitely room for more routes.
By Jim H
From: Pasadena, CA
May 27, 2015
There is a great TR with beta photos at


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