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At about the crux.
|Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>|
On May 6, 2012, I led my wife, Jeana, up a climb immediately right of Cracking Up
. Stem an alcove up to and over a chockstone that dams a pond of rubble. Place a #0.5 Camalot in a horizontal. Move up and left to the base of a 4-inch crack in a right-facing dihedral. Place a #0.75 Camalot to the left, in a horizontal. Climb crack to top (5.8-). I didn't have a 3 1/2-inch (or bigger) piece, so I placed a wobbly, tipped-out #3 Cam in a narrower space and excavated lichen from a small, shallow, horizontal pocket for a red C3. I also excavated lichen from a key right-angling crimp the on right wall of the dihedral. Don't arouse the rubble!
This is in an alcove immediately right of Cracking Up
. I rapped from the old, poor-quality cold-shuts atop Cracking Up
, after placing gear on top to anchor me while I threaded the rope through the shuts, which are a couple feet below the rim. After toproping CU
, I retrieved the gear.
Cams to 3 1/2 or 4 inches.
Arrow points to the big crack up above.
By Jay Eggleston
Mar 8, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I did this route today. I am glad I had a #4 Camalot. You might even be able to place something bigger. I thought the anchor on Cracking Up was easy to thread for the descent. It is not very far below the rim, maybe a foot.