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Unknown next to L'Anniversaire T 

Rubberneck 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Paul Ross and Tana Cathcart Aug 7, 1973
Page Views: 74
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Oct 4, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Rubberneck at overlap

Description 

Another of the Paul Ross-Cathcart climbs of AUG 7 '73. Perhaps by now Paul's belayer was wishing for a "rubber" neck?!

P1 is not "bad", but if it was as nice as P2 I'd give the whole route 3 stars.

START- 50 FT above where the main path meets the slab is a long, arching overlap. From the left end of the overlap the climb "Building Steam" climbs the first weakness, a wide, sort-of-flaring inside corner with a fixed wire nut. "Pencilneck" climbs through the arch at the second weakness, about 6 to 8 feet right of "Building Steam", and RUBBERNECK climbs through flakes 20 +/- ft further right. SEE PHOTO of this large overlap POSTED to PENCILNECK GEEK

P1- Climb up the slab any way you wish and head for the gap with several flakes about 2/3rds of the way along the overlap. (Photo) Go through these (gear, 5.4 - 5.5 +/-) and continue along the weakness to the left until reaching the tree ledge. 150+/-ft 5.4-5.5 [The FA party belayed in the "weakness" above the overlap. ]

P2- Move back right out of the trees, make a step up to a natural thread (photo), then face climb (5.6 PG/R, Var) up right-ish to a small flake with good gear ( small cams). Step right, then up face (5.6 R, crux) to a hidden stance. Step back left and up to a 2 bolt anchor. 100 ft 5.6 R [Note: Of course, there's no guarantee that this was the exact route of F.A., but it's nice climbing and fits the grade.]

Variation- Move left, then back right on a sort-of inverted "L" flake. This avoids the first 5.6 face.

Descent- If not doing P3, rap, or lower, from the anchor to the tree island. Here, rap from the "Making Steam" rap tree, which is a dozen or so feet down in the island.
With two ropes from the double bolt anchor it is possible to reach the P1 anchor of Littoral Zone, then 2 ropes to the ground. This "avoids the tree ledge.

P3 - Up easy, but somewhat mossy slab to the top. 100 +/- ft 5.3-5.4 Rap with 2 ropes.

Protection 

Modern rack with some small TCU's


Photos of Rubberneck Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking Up at P2 of Rubberneck
BETA PHOTO: Looking Up at P2 of Rubberneck
Rock Climbing Photo: P2 Topo for Rubberneck, as described in text.
BETA PHOTO: P2 Topo for Rubberneck, as described in text.
Rock Climbing Photo: Thread at start of P2 of Ruberneck, to the R of th...
BETA PHOTO: Thread at start of P2 of Ruberneck, to the R of th...

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