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YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Chris Alber, 1998
Page Views: 157
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>


An overhanging and sustained pitch with a crux dyno at the top.

Start on a platform just left of Flying Machines. Climb overhanging rock up and right to a pillar, continue up difficult rock, and launch into the final crux dyno just below the anchor.


5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos of Rubberneck Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Dillon working the moves at the pillar on Ru...
Peter Dillon working the moves at the pillar on Ru...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim Garber at the top of the pitch.  Photo by Pete...
Jim Garber at the top of the pitch. Photo by Pete...

Comments on Rubberneck Add Comment
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By Elijah Flenner
Feb 4, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

I believe that this route is manufactured. The obviously manufactured hold to the left of the last bolt can be skipped, which makes the route slightly more difficult. I cannot tell if one of the lower holds has been enhanced, but due to all the other manufactured holds on this wall I would think so.
By Mark E Dixon
From: Sprezzatura, Someday
Aug 20, 2015

I would have to disagree. I don't actually know what hold you are referring to left of the last bolt, but none of the holds seem manufactured to me. I dynoed straight up, maybe a little rightish, from the jug just below the last bolt.
Getting to the crimp by bolt 2 was very reachy, at 5'6" - ape +1, I had to use some bad sidepulls and a little bounce. My taller friend could keep his hand on the low rail.
The route to the left however...looked like several enhanced holds.

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